In my case it took a whole day before it was properly set. Maybe I didn't quite get the mixture right but I always leave it a day for peace of mind.
This is where you need to make a decision about what you want to do next, this is very dependent on the repair area on your car. As you can tell from the images the damaged area on mine was round the bottom of the front skirt where the underseal comes up to on my car.
So the plan for that is to sand it down to a point where it's really smooth and then underseal it and spray over the top.
That sounds quite simple, and it fundamentally is but it still requires a good bit of hard work to get it right.
The aim is to sand it down to a point where it's completely smooth with the body, so it's "seamless" This requires a variation of really rough to super fine sand paper and alot of elbow grease. The important thing is to not be worried about damaging the car and bodywork in that area.
Obviously you don't want to create extra unnecessary work for yourself but it's important you get it done well.
After that the next thing to do is to wash the area down, get rid of all the dust and particles surrounding the area, since these will create air bubbles when you come to spray over it. The best way to be certain you've got rid of everything is to use a microfiber cloth or paint preparation wipes. A good wash and these combined are a good foundation for a perfect respray.
Once that's done apply the underseal and wait for it to dry, it might be worth doing a couple of layers again for this.
When it comes to spraying the treated area, the first thing you want to do is get out the paint preparation wipes again, go over the area, make sure it's particle free and cover the areas you don't want to spray. The first coat is going to be a primer coat.
Hold the can steady and keep a consistent distance away from the bodywork, around 10-20cms and move steadily backward and forward across the area, making sure there's no dribbles or drips and crucially, make sure it's going on evenly, no over spray or blotchy areas.
Sounds tricky but you'll get the hang of it in no time, if you're unsure or uncomfortable, practice on a scrap piece of card or paper first to get the technique down, then it's pretty straightforward from there.
If the rust repair you've done is on a more normal body panel such as the door or wheel arches, you might want to consider going over the area with filler as well- this is the complete repair. I recommend you do this if you really want a solid finish, again this requires alot of elbow grease and hard work to get it right. But it adds that extra reinforcement to the fibre glass repair.
It also adds alot of extra time to the job but it probably gets the best finish overall, because once you've applied it, sanded it down and prepared it for a spray, it looks the most natural against the body work, no matter how well you sand down fibre glass, it never comes out quite as perfect as filler.
Using filler is similar to the fibre glass in that you have to mix it to get it to work, follow the guidelines on the product, and keep in mind this stuff sets quickly so get it spread out and as flat as possible before putting it on. Here's a quick video from west coast customs that explains it better.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/how-to-finish-off-your-rust-repair-5342546.html
About the Author
Author: Christopher Hibberd
How to finish off your rust repair
To see how to completely get rid of rust blemishes and rust holes, head on over to the site above to see more
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