If you own or are buying a classic or vintage car you will know they need more attention than an everyday vehicle. The nature of classic/vintage cars often means driving to your chosen destination is simply not possible. The number of ways to transport a car can be daunting but this guide will go through each one.
Service Type
When transporting a classic car, you have 3 types of courier services – each of which will be examined in more detail below.
1) The car is driven to its destination on trade plates
2) The car is transported on a single car trailer
3) The car is transported on a multi-car trailer
Having the car transporter drive it to its destination on trade plates can be the cheapest option – but there are disadvantages. The chances of it being damaged are slightly higher (although nothing to worry about) as the car is being driven on the road, however a good car transporter will naturally be appropriately insured. In addition the mileage of the car will be used, which can be hefty when the trip is especially long.
Hiring a transporter who uses a single car trailer will be the more expensive of the options because the cost will not be shared amongst other customers. This method of car transport is rarely overbooked like the multi-car transportation can be, meaning it is entirely possible to find a willing car transporter at short notice. Having your classic car transported on an enclosed is the safest albeit most costly option.
Using a multi-car trailer should be the cheapest option, as the cost can be divided between many customers. Cars are transported around the UK and Europe daily, making this a good option. However, door to door delivery will be unlikely – with this method, the car transporter will generally deliver the car to a nearby hub, from where you can collect the car.
Preparation
Preparation is key when transporting your classic or vintage car – the better the preparation the better the chances of avoiding damage during transit. To work out the details of delivery you should really be in constant conversation with your transport conversation. Your chosen car transporter should know everything about your car, from its make and model, to age and faults
Make sure the transporter is aware that the car is a classic, vintage or antique. This gives the transporter a chance to acquire different equipment if they need and simply to take more care on the day! Leading up to its transportation, you should document all the existing damage and problems with the car that might affect its transport and handling.
The loss or damage of personal items within a car will rarely be covered by the transporter's insurance so make sure you take them all out before handing the car over. If you have a moment, break out the sponge and chamois and give the car a good clean. Head lamps should be
Take dated photographs with a written record of any damage (and of course lack of damage) the car may have. If your car is not mot'd or particularly old it may be risky to have it towed.
If you are lucky enough to be transporting a convertible you should properly seal the roof to prevent debris and moisture entering the car interior. Tarp or heavy duty tape will able to cover any breaks in the seal.
The antennae should be retracted and the mirrors should be folded back. As a rule, anything that is sticking out or is likely to wobble should be closed or taken off and transported separately.
If you make an inventory of the various parts of the car you will better equipped to realise when one goes missing or is damaged upon its arrival.
Transporting your classic car
Before handing over your vehicle, ensure any damage is catalogued as described above. Any respectable car transporter will do likewise.
Check the mileage on the car before releasing it – although it may increase very slightly as it is loaded and unloaded, there should of course be no major inconsistency.
Upon delivery, inspect the vehicle meticulously. Always check the car for damages on arrival before signing the job off and letting the transporter go. Check for any additional damage, and remember to make sure there is none on the roof or the bumpers. If there is, make sure the driver or company sign a document acknowledging the damage, or recourse will be much more difficult.
if you find any dents, bumps or scratches after the car has been delivered you need to contact your transport provider to try and work out a speedy resolution. Give your insurance company 24 hrs before you have the car shipped.
Post Delivery
Damage to the car during transport is rare, but it is still essential to check the car on arrival. Before going down any legal routes or other methods of recourse, try to sort out any problems with the firm directly. Should the worst happen, agencies such as Trading Standards may be able to assist.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/how-can-i-have-my-classic-car-delivered-safely-5294333.html
About the Author
Author: Antonio Bruno
Antonino Bruzzsa is a freelance writer creating quality content for many websites in various niches.
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Showing posts with label Classic Car. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Classic Car. Show all posts
Friday, November 11, 2011
Thursday, November 10, 2011
How To Finish Off Your Rust Repair
If you got the fibre glass repair kit like I did, ( I think it's a starter pack, or something like that) it will say on there leave 15 to 20 mins before applying another layer or putting anything on top, ignore this.
In my case it took a whole day before it was properly set. Maybe I didn't quite get the mixture right but I always leave it a day for peace of mind.
This is where you need to make a decision about what you want to do next, this is very dependent on the repair area on your car. As you can tell from the images the damaged area on mine was round the bottom of the front skirt where the underseal comes up to on my car.
So the plan for that is to sand it down to a point where it's really smooth and then underseal it and spray over the top.
That sounds quite simple, and it fundamentally is but it still requires a good bit of hard work to get it right.
The aim is to sand it down to a point where it's completely smooth with the body, so it's "seamless" This requires a variation of really rough to super fine sand paper and alot of elbow grease. The important thing is to not be worried about damaging the car and bodywork in that area.
Obviously you don't want to create extra unnecessary work for yourself but it's important you get it done well.
After that the next thing to do is to wash the area down, get rid of all the dust and particles surrounding the area, since these will create air bubbles when you come to spray over it. The best way to be certain you've got rid of everything is to use a microfiber cloth or paint preparation wipes. A good wash and these combined are a good foundation for a perfect respray.
Once that's done apply the underseal and wait for it to dry, it might be worth doing a couple of layers again for this.
When it comes to spraying the treated area, the first thing you want to do is get out the paint preparation wipes again, go over the area, make sure it's particle free and cover the areas you don't want to spray. The first coat is going to be a primer coat.
Hold the can steady and keep a consistent distance away from the bodywork, around 10-20cms and move steadily backward and forward across the area, making sure there's no dribbles or drips and crucially, make sure it's going on evenly, no over spray or blotchy areas.
Sounds tricky but you'll get the hang of it in no time, if you're unsure or uncomfortable, practice on a scrap piece of card or paper first to get the technique down, then it's pretty straightforward from there.
If the rust repair you've done is on a more normal body panel such as the door or wheel arches, you might want to consider going over the area with filler as well- this is the complete repair. I recommend you do this if you really want a solid finish, again this requires alot of elbow grease and hard work to get it right. But it adds that extra reinforcement to the fibre glass repair.
It also adds alot of extra time to the job but it probably gets the best finish overall, because once you've applied it, sanded it down and prepared it for a spray, it looks the most natural against the body work, no matter how well you sand down fibre glass, it never comes out quite as perfect as filler.
Using filler is similar to the fibre glass in that you have to mix it to get it to work, follow the guidelines on the product, and keep in mind this stuff sets quickly so get it spread out and as flat as possible before putting it on. Here's a quick video from west coast customs that explains it better.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/how-to-finish-off-your-rust-repair-5342546.html
About the Author
Author: Christopher Hibberd
How to finish off your rust repair
To see how to completely get rid of rust blemishes and rust holes, head on over to the site above to see more
In my case it took a whole day before it was properly set. Maybe I didn't quite get the mixture right but I always leave it a day for peace of mind.
This is where you need to make a decision about what you want to do next, this is very dependent on the repair area on your car. As you can tell from the images the damaged area on mine was round the bottom of the front skirt where the underseal comes up to on my car.
So the plan for that is to sand it down to a point where it's really smooth and then underseal it and spray over the top.
That sounds quite simple, and it fundamentally is but it still requires a good bit of hard work to get it right.
The aim is to sand it down to a point where it's completely smooth with the body, so it's "seamless" This requires a variation of really rough to super fine sand paper and alot of elbow grease. The important thing is to not be worried about damaging the car and bodywork in that area.
Obviously you don't want to create extra unnecessary work for yourself but it's important you get it done well.
After that the next thing to do is to wash the area down, get rid of all the dust and particles surrounding the area, since these will create air bubbles when you come to spray over it. The best way to be certain you've got rid of everything is to use a microfiber cloth or paint preparation wipes. A good wash and these combined are a good foundation for a perfect respray.
Once that's done apply the underseal and wait for it to dry, it might be worth doing a couple of layers again for this.
When it comes to spraying the treated area, the first thing you want to do is get out the paint preparation wipes again, go over the area, make sure it's particle free and cover the areas you don't want to spray. The first coat is going to be a primer coat.
Hold the can steady and keep a consistent distance away from the bodywork, around 10-20cms and move steadily backward and forward across the area, making sure there's no dribbles or drips and crucially, make sure it's going on evenly, no over spray or blotchy areas.
Sounds tricky but you'll get the hang of it in no time, if you're unsure or uncomfortable, practice on a scrap piece of card or paper first to get the technique down, then it's pretty straightforward from there.
If the rust repair you've done is on a more normal body panel such as the door or wheel arches, you might want to consider going over the area with filler as well- this is the complete repair. I recommend you do this if you really want a solid finish, again this requires alot of elbow grease and hard work to get it right. But it adds that extra reinforcement to the fibre glass repair.
It also adds alot of extra time to the job but it probably gets the best finish overall, because once you've applied it, sanded it down and prepared it for a spray, it looks the most natural against the body work, no matter how well you sand down fibre glass, it never comes out quite as perfect as filler.
Using filler is similar to the fibre glass in that you have to mix it to get it to work, follow the guidelines on the product, and keep in mind this stuff sets quickly so get it spread out and as flat as possible before putting it on. Here's a quick video from west coast customs that explains it better.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/how-to-finish-off-your-rust-repair-5342546.html
About the Author
Author: Christopher Hibberd
How to finish off your rust repair
To see how to completely get rid of rust blemishes and rust holes, head on over to the site above to see more
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Important Tips for Classic Car Transport
Transportation of a classic car is very different from that of an ordinary car. A common vehicle does not require any special treatment and having it repaired is relatively cheap. On the contrary moving an exotic vehicle requires a lot of professionalism and care. In case anything goes wrong, the owner has to spend a fortune on repairs. Fortunately you can easily avoid these problems by hiring an enclosed auto transport company. An enclosed trailer not only saves the contained vehicles from dust and debris but also from unfavorable weather conditions like hail storms, rains and excessive sunlight. During transportation you can rest assured that your beloved car will be delivered to its destination without any scratches or dents. Despite of all its great benefits an enclosed auto transport firm might not be enough for the safety of your automobile. This article will teach you the exact strategy that you need to adopt in order to prevent a damages.
Choosing an appropriate company is the most important thing. First of all you should make sure that the company you choose holds lots of experience in classic car transport. Just having the necessary hardware is not enough. Most companies mention years of experience and other important details on their website. In addition to experience your company should also have a license to move expensive vehicles. On the internet there are many review websites that can help you do the required research.
As I have already mentioned, having an exotic vehicle repaired can be very costly. That means you need a proper insurance policy. The coverage provided by auto transport companies might be enough for an ordinary car but when it comes to very expensive vehicles, buying a separate policy is highly recommended.
When a vehicle is being transported it is vulnerable to a lot of damage. Shorter is the time of transportation lesser are the chances of anything bad happening to your car. By paying some extra fees you can minimize the delivery time. Similarly when a person opts for terminal to terminal transportation his vehicle is kept at a local parking lot for several days prior to transportation. As you can imagine, this can be very risky. That is why door to door auto transportation is the recommended method for expensive cars.
There are many other strategies as well, but the the most important ones have been covered. By following all the tips mentioned in this article you can ensure the safe delivery of your valuable vehicle.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/important-tips-for-classic-car-transport-5149074.html
About the Author
Author: Elizabeth Keller
If you are trying to find a reliable company for classic car transport then look no further. We can help you pick a reliable auto transport company. You can also read quality articles on auto transport.
Choosing an appropriate company is the most important thing. First of all you should make sure that the company you choose holds lots of experience in classic car transport. Just having the necessary hardware is not enough. Most companies mention years of experience and other important details on their website. In addition to experience your company should also have a license to move expensive vehicles. On the internet there are many review websites that can help you do the required research.
As I have already mentioned, having an exotic vehicle repaired can be very costly. That means you need a proper insurance policy. The coverage provided by auto transport companies might be enough for an ordinary car but when it comes to very expensive vehicles, buying a separate policy is highly recommended.
When a vehicle is being transported it is vulnerable to a lot of damage. Shorter is the time of transportation lesser are the chances of anything bad happening to your car. By paying some extra fees you can minimize the delivery time. Similarly when a person opts for terminal to terminal transportation his vehicle is kept at a local parking lot for several days prior to transportation. As you can imagine, this can be very risky. That is why door to door auto transportation is the recommended method for expensive cars.
There are many other strategies as well, but the the most important ones have been covered. By following all the tips mentioned in this article you can ensure the safe delivery of your valuable vehicle.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/important-tips-for-classic-car-transport-5149074.html
About the Author
Author: Elizabeth Keller
If you are trying to find a reliable company for classic car transport then look no further. We can help you pick a reliable auto transport company. You can also read quality articles on auto transport.
How To Remove Rust From Your Car
Rust ruins vehicles For some people, rust can be the bane of their existence. It's destructive, ugly, and difficult to get rid of. It can get everywhere, and it seems to particularly enjoy cars! Most of these people, which could include you, have never heard of rust removal products and probably didn't know they existed, let alone know how effective, easy and cheap they can be.
New vehicles normally come with rust prevention substances already on them, but once the warranty on the vehicle expires, owners have to be especially careful to try and prevent rust. Of course, preventing rust isn't always easy or practical, and sometimes the only possible solution to rust problems is removal.
How rust forms and spreads
Rust isn't exactly difficult to get either. The smallest chip, cut or scratch in the bodywork of your car can open it up to the possibility of rusting. Once the surface coating has been removed, moisture, oxygen and water all get into the car and begin the process of rusting. Rust is porous meaning that it allows even more moisture in, this is why rust spreads across the car so quickly, but trying to prevent this rusting can be an expensive process.
A lot of people believe that the only method of rust removal is a hefty bill from a professional bodyshop; however, inexpensive rust removal methods are widely available.
Products such as evapo-rust are specifically designed for home rust removal tasks. All rust removal products work on generally the same scientific premise of causing a chemical reaction to cause the rust to break away from the object on which it has formed.
The features of an excellent rust remover for cars
* It rapidly removes rust from ferrous metal and stainless steel
* It's non-toxic, non-corrosive and inflammable.
* It is environmentally friendly by being biodegradable. .
* There are no hazardous ingredients including acids and solvents
* It works at room temperature
* No specialist equipment is required
* It works as a stand-alone product and no secondary or add-on purchases are required.
* Recurrence of rust is prevented for a decent period after application.
* Will not affect non-rusted areas
* It is simple to apply and easy to clear up after operation
Is it worth it?
No rust remover product is a rust preventer – that is an entirely different matter. – but if you can purchase a rust removal product that is effective for a decent period of time it is worth the effort. Having to buy the product for a few dollars every month or so and undertaking the work on your car yourself is a lot cheaper than the prospect of driving around in a "rust bucket" or worse, contemplating the expense of trading in the car for a rust free model.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/how-to-remove-rust-from-your-car-5106652.html
About the Author
Author: robertcorinadam
Rustremover.net/ is the perfect site for finding evapo-rust for a really bargain price. This product will solve all your rust related problems and offer a variety of products to help you in the future.
New vehicles normally come with rust prevention substances already on them, but once the warranty on the vehicle expires, owners have to be especially careful to try and prevent rust. Of course, preventing rust isn't always easy or practical, and sometimes the only possible solution to rust problems is removal.
How rust forms and spreads
Rust isn't exactly difficult to get either. The smallest chip, cut or scratch in the bodywork of your car can open it up to the possibility of rusting. Once the surface coating has been removed, moisture, oxygen and water all get into the car and begin the process of rusting. Rust is porous meaning that it allows even more moisture in, this is why rust spreads across the car so quickly, but trying to prevent this rusting can be an expensive process.
A lot of people believe that the only method of rust removal is a hefty bill from a professional bodyshop; however, inexpensive rust removal methods are widely available.
Products such as evapo-rust are specifically designed for home rust removal tasks. All rust removal products work on generally the same scientific premise of causing a chemical reaction to cause the rust to break away from the object on which it has formed.
The features of an excellent rust remover for cars
* It rapidly removes rust from ferrous metal and stainless steel
* It's non-toxic, non-corrosive and inflammable.
* It is environmentally friendly by being biodegradable. .
* There are no hazardous ingredients including acids and solvents
* It works at room temperature
* No specialist equipment is required
* It works as a stand-alone product and no secondary or add-on purchases are required.
* Recurrence of rust is prevented for a decent period after application.
* Will not affect non-rusted areas
* It is simple to apply and easy to clear up after operation
Is it worth it?
No rust remover product is a rust preventer – that is an entirely different matter. – but if you can purchase a rust removal product that is effective for a decent period of time it is worth the effort. Having to buy the product for a few dollars every month or so and undertaking the work on your car yourself is a lot cheaper than the prospect of driving around in a "rust bucket" or worse, contemplating the expense of trading in the car for a rust free model.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/how-to-remove-rust-from-your-car-5106652.html
About the Author
Author: robertcorinadam
Rustremover.net/ is the perfect site for finding evapo-rust for a really bargain price. This product will solve all your rust related problems and offer a variety of products to help you in the future.
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
A History of Vintage Automobiles From 1916 Through 1924
Before cars were around, people usually traveled distances using horse-drawn carriages. But as early as 1335 several bright minds have been trying to come up with a "horseless carriage". In Italy there were quite a number of designs for wind-driven vehicles, none of which were ever built. Leonardo da Vinci designed a clockwork vehicle, but that too remained just a concept. In America there were two prominent figures who would be remembered as forefathers of the modern automobile--Ransom E. Olds and Henry Ford. Olds was the first mass producer of gasoline-powered automobiles in America, while Ford built several prototypes and began selling cars in 1903.
However, these cars were really nothing more than crude horseless carriages, and they looked a lot like them too--the open body, the large, wooden wheels all screamed "carriage without a horse". But by 1916 certain developments enabled these carriages to become viable means of transportation, with better mechanics, increased power and efficiency, and most of all, safety and comfort.
During the 1916-1924 period, most automobile designs have improved drastically. The dangerous hand crank was replaceed with electric starters, and kerosene lanterns were replaced by electric lighting. Enclosed bodies were also becoming more popular, and the windows can be raised or lowered at will. These improvements not only made automobiles more stylish, but also safer and more comfortable for both passengers and drivers. Driving was slowly becoming more pleasurable.
Apart from increased comfort and security, another important characteristic of cars that became emergent during this period was the increase in durability and affordability. Automobile manufacturers like Ford, Chevrolet, Chrysler, Dodge, Buick, Plymouth, and Oldsmobile were mass-producing durable cars on assembly lines, which made it possible for more people to travel around at an affordable price. In addition, smaller companies began producing specific car components, adding to the ease of production and sustainability, and further lowering prices, which in turn increased the popularity of the automobile as the preferred mode of travel for everyone.
As the automobile's popularity rose, so did the number of manufacturing companies. Some experimented with electricity and steam--and electricity is still being experimented with to this day--but internal combustion engines were clearly preferred with Packard's development of the V-12. Other manufactureres produced V-8s and V-16s, and by the end of this period the market had hundreds of manufacturers each producing several hundred different models, with a variety of engine configurations.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/a-history-of-vintage-automobiles-from-1916-through-1924-399258.html
About the Author
Author: J. Carter
CDManuals.net
However, these cars were really nothing more than crude horseless carriages, and they looked a lot like them too--the open body, the large, wooden wheels all screamed "carriage without a horse". But by 1916 certain developments enabled these carriages to become viable means of transportation, with better mechanics, increased power and efficiency, and most of all, safety and comfort.
During the 1916-1924 period, most automobile designs have improved drastically. The dangerous hand crank was replaceed with electric starters, and kerosene lanterns were replaced by electric lighting. Enclosed bodies were also becoming more popular, and the windows can be raised or lowered at will. These improvements not only made automobiles more stylish, but also safer and more comfortable for both passengers and drivers. Driving was slowly becoming more pleasurable.
Apart from increased comfort and security, another important characteristic of cars that became emergent during this period was the increase in durability and affordability. Automobile manufacturers like Ford, Chevrolet, Chrysler, Dodge, Buick, Plymouth, and Oldsmobile were mass-producing durable cars on assembly lines, which made it possible for more people to travel around at an affordable price. In addition, smaller companies began producing specific car components, adding to the ease of production and sustainability, and further lowering prices, which in turn increased the popularity of the automobile as the preferred mode of travel for everyone.
As the automobile's popularity rose, so did the number of manufacturing companies. Some experimented with electricity and steam--and electricity is still being experimented with to this day--but internal combustion engines were clearly preferred with Packard's development of the V-12. Other manufactureres produced V-8s and V-16s, and by the end of this period the market had hundreds of manufacturers each producing several hundred different models, with a variety of engine configurations.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/a-history-of-vintage-automobiles-from-1916-through-1924-399258.html
About the Author
Author: J. Carter
CDManuals.net
Sunday, June 26, 2011
Why classic cars have costly fuel, engine, and transmission problems. Products that prevent and end them
Classic cars often have problems because they are not driven enough.
New additive products contain ingredients to overcome the negatives of that problem.
For example, these are common problems I experience with my classics that I found additives to end, correct or fix. Additives, in treatment form, end and avoid exhaust smoke, plugged up oil lines, frozen brake cylinders, knock, tap, stalling, and hang up between gear shifts. Then there's leaks, power steering that growls, and air conditioning that does not!
All those wear and tear and colagulating resides problems can now be helped with new additive chemistry. But not the brakes system....
There are no additives for the brake system or its fluid - like there is for all the other power train and motor components. To prevent brakes problems on vehicles like your classic car that are driven little - and all vehicles, I would say is to do this service. Service the brakes of your classic car every two years in this way. Bleed the brake system fluid at each wheel - as describes in any car repair manual. This prevents moisture that seeps in at the wheel brake cylinder from rusting the internal piston part that operate the brakeing action. Some times, the cylinders needs re-kitted, or replaced with new, is this maintenace is not performed.
I favor the Mega Power brand of additives because they neutralize acids - the number one cause of most wear and performance problems.
Another ingredient this brand has iswhat is called MC+ - a friction reducting advantages that conditions the metal surface to keep it smooth - and anti-wear benefit, and reduce metal-to-metal drag; a horsepower consumer.
They contain ingredients that go where oil cannot to clean and free sticking rings, valves and hydraulic lifters, both in the motor, transmission, power steering, and a/c systems to have these run great again.
Mega Power fuel additives absorb moisture annd condensation in the fuel tank and also nutralize any sulpher compounds that quickly turn into acid - the cause of holes in your gas tank.
The radiator and its cooling sustem is another costly repair maker if not nutralized of acids. Even in new cars anti-freeze goes bad - sour - meaning acidic and eats holes in the costliest of spots. that often includes the manifold and head gaskets - costing thousands to fix.
It would take an hour to list all that this brand can do for your clasic and newer vehicles. You can learn more of what they can do to preserve your clasic and other cars and equipment, and always have them start, run, and go as if driven everyday - even if driven every day - trouble free.
http://www.auto-tune-up-and-repair-options.com/index.html
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/why-classic-cars-have-costly-fuel-engine-and-transmission-problems-products-that-prevent-and-end-them-4833696.html
About the Author
Author: George Christ
George Christ, is America's Car Care Expert in the use of new engine, transmission, anti-wear products. His advice and product recommendations helps car and equipment owners with Do-it-yourself help to end their cars specific wear and performance problem, not possible before. He provides training, products, and marketing plans to independent tune up, lube, and auto repair owners, techs and mechanics, in the specific use of Mega Power Problem-solving Products. This includeds extending vehicle life, ending power loss, rough idle, valve tap, stallng, oil burning, rough shift, leak, steering roughness, over heating, air conditioning compressor wear, Hi-mileage, and other performance problems.
Details at his web site, or by phone. 1 512 665 3388
New additive products contain ingredients to overcome the negatives of that problem.
For example, these are common problems I experience with my classics that I found additives to end, correct or fix. Additives, in treatment form, end and avoid exhaust smoke, plugged up oil lines, frozen brake cylinders, knock, tap, stalling, and hang up between gear shifts. Then there's leaks, power steering that growls, and air conditioning that does not!
All those wear and tear and colagulating resides problems can now be helped with new additive chemistry. But not the brakes system....
There are no additives for the brake system or its fluid - like there is for all the other power train and motor components. To prevent brakes problems on vehicles like your classic car that are driven little - and all vehicles, I would say is to do this service. Service the brakes of your classic car every two years in this way. Bleed the brake system fluid at each wheel - as describes in any car repair manual. This prevents moisture that seeps in at the wheel brake cylinder from rusting the internal piston part that operate the brakeing action. Some times, the cylinders needs re-kitted, or replaced with new, is this maintenace is not performed.
I favor the Mega Power brand of additives because they neutralize acids - the number one cause of most wear and performance problems.
Another ingredient this brand has iswhat is called MC+ - a friction reducting advantages that conditions the metal surface to keep it smooth - and anti-wear benefit, and reduce metal-to-metal drag; a horsepower consumer.
They contain ingredients that go where oil cannot to clean and free sticking rings, valves and hydraulic lifters, both in the motor, transmission, power steering, and a/c systems to have these run great again.
Mega Power fuel additives absorb moisture annd condensation in the fuel tank and also nutralize any sulpher compounds that quickly turn into acid - the cause of holes in your gas tank.
The radiator and its cooling sustem is another costly repair maker if not nutralized of acids. Even in new cars anti-freeze goes bad - sour - meaning acidic and eats holes in the costliest of spots. that often includes the manifold and head gaskets - costing thousands to fix.
It would take an hour to list all that this brand can do for your clasic and newer vehicles. You can learn more of what they can do to preserve your clasic and other cars and equipment, and always have them start, run, and go as if driven everyday - even if driven every day - trouble free.
http://www.auto-tune-up-and-repair-options.com/index.html
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/why-classic-cars-have-costly-fuel-engine-and-transmission-problems-products-that-prevent-and-end-them-4833696.html
About the Author
Author: George Christ
George Christ, is America's Car Care Expert in the use of new engine, transmission, anti-wear products. His advice and product recommendations helps car and equipment owners with Do-it-yourself help to end their cars specific wear and performance problem, not possible before. He provides training, products, and marketing plans to independent tune up, lube, and auto repair owners, techs and mechanics, in the specific use of Mega Power Problem-solving Products. This includeds extending vehicle life, ending power loss, rough idle, valve tap, stallng, oil burning, rough shift, leak, steering roughness, over heating, air conditioning compressor wear, Hi-mileage, and other performance problems.
Details at his web site, or by phone. 1 512 665 3388
Labels:
Classic Car,
leaks,
maintenace,
motor,
products,
transmission,
tune up,
wear and maintenace products
Tuesday, April 26, 2011
1965 Ford Mustang Photo Gallery
Monday, April 18, 2011
How to Pick a Classic Automobile to Restore
How to Pick a Classic Automobile to Restore
Author: Ted StricklandHow to Pick a Classic Automobile to Restore
You finally have some extra time on your hands, and some excess income laying around even. So you decide to rebuild the vintage vehicle you've always dreamed of. Here are some steps to look at before starting on your restoration plan.
Picking an Auto Genre
The very first step is deciding an automotive genre that really drives you. Do you think you're hot for the classic autos, the muscle cars and trucks of the 1960's and 1970's? Or perhaps are you really a vintage car sort of man (or woman)?
This may possibly appear to be a rhetorical issue but with all the hard work ahead, you should decide on a vehicle from a period that can bring back some recollections, one which will really get you enthused. You can easily start a car restoration project yet it is much more difficult to finish. Decide on a style that will motivate you to finish the work.
Proclaiming your loyalty
For some auto fanatics, the make or model is unimportant. For some individuals they are manufacturer faithful to the end. If you happen to be a Toyota fanatic, Chevy crazy, or maybe keen about Chrysler, you ought to stick to your beloved brand, at least for your initial venture. Picking out a Model Now that you have decided on a style, narrow your search to a specific model or range of models. You may love the look of the classic fifty seven Chevy. In order to make your research easier you might include the 1955 and 1956 models also. You may even want to consider a Ford out of the very same time period.
Another thing to consider, whenever choosing a classic to make, will be the resale cost. Unless of course you are more motivated by the memories for this auto compared to the monetary possibilities.
Locate a Carcass
Getting a classic car or truck which is salvageable may be the most difficult portion of the journey. You'll find a carcass at a junk yard, but this really is rare nowadays. Try looking in online boards, ads in the classifieds, or even better visit some neighborhood car or truck shows and just ask around. In the event that you do eventually come across a vehicle you like, pay attention to the availability of replacement parts before you finalize your purchase.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/how-to-pick-a-classic-automobile-to-restore-4569984.html
About the Author
Ted is a writer and detective. When not working he likes to work on his latest project car.
Monday, April 11, 2011
Muscle Cars: How to Rebuild and Modify Your Muscle Car
Muscle Cars: How to Rebuild and Modify Your Muscle Car
Author: Alex BaummAfter the World War II, muscle cars became an instant hit, as motorists and car buyers aimed to acquire vehicles that would showcase and show great power and speed. The term was basically a name description of what the car was to the industry.
Muscle cars were considered the instruments to bring back the glory and profitability of the global car industry. Muscle autos were hugely popular in the United States, the United Kingdom and Australia.
With the emergence of many other car brands and more superior car models, muscle cars are now nowhere in the map of global cars. However, there are still some of those vehicles that are in circulation within the market.
Those muscle autos are now considered novelty and collectors' items. If you happen to own one, it surely would be your interest to improve and revitalize the look and performance of your old car. Thus, you would certainly find ways on how you can rebuild and modify your muscle auto.
Here are some suggested procedures on how you can rebuild and revitalize the look and feel of your muscle autos. Take note that some auto detailing techniques may already be familiar to you, especially if you are into regular auto detailing.
1. Plan the restoration process ahead of time. Muscle cars are important and are sensitive cars. Any error or mistake on the rebuilding and auto detailing procedure could greatly harm and alter the overall appearance of the exterior of the car. Thus, it would be advisable if you would do a research and ask experts on what to do right about your muscle auto. Make a simple list of things to do and do a checklist to serve as a guide as you do the rebuilding and modifying process.
2. Spend time and more effort rebuilding the body of the muscle cars. Pay particular attention to details. The overall body of the car should be given more care and proper treatment. Do you need to modify and do little changes at the engine and the overall system? If you are not too familiar with it, just leave it to the experts. Just tell them what you want, what you aim and what you intend to do and let them do the rest.
3. Settle to do a major auto detailing. When the insides of the muscle autos are modified and improved, take time to do a major auto detailing process. When you auto detail muscle cars, you aim to revamp and overhaul the total exterior and physical package of the vehicles. Repaint. Spend to repair damaged parts. Check the wheels. In no time, the muscle autos would look as awesome as new again.
4. To wrap things up, check the overall electrical system of the muscle autos. Pay attention to the electrical wirings responsible for the proper functioning of lights and horns. Make sure the battery is functioning well.
5. There is no need to change the overall physical appearance or the assembly of the body packaging, not unless you want to remodel your muscle autos. If you do so, your muscle cars would cease to be muscle cars and should be called through other names. As your muscle cars take a new rejuvenation and look, always remember that muscle cars would not ever function like the modern powerful cars. During their time, muscle autos were the most powerful vehicles on the road.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/cars-articles/muscle-cars-how-to-rebuild-and-modify-your-muscle-car-344973.html
About the Author
Alex Baumm, member of the Carclubtalk Car Club. More than half a century has passed, so do not think Muscle Cars are still as superior. They would definitely make as good collectors' items, though. Ask your questions about Auto Detailing etc.
Friday, March 4, 2011
Classic Car Auctions: The Classic Cars You've Always Wanted
Classic Car Auctions: The Classic Cars You've Always Wanted
Author: Johnnie McGeeClassic car auctions are the first place you need to look if you're the type of person that has been saving up all your money, ever since you were a kid, for the car of your dreams. Classic cars are timeless, and they will always appeal to everyone, regardless of age, gender, or status. Just seeing one pass by would already give you the thrills; owning one is a totally different experience, one that doesn't compare to owning other material things in this world.
Classic car auctions are different than ordinary car auctions, because it appeals and caters to individuals who are willing to spend a lot of money for their love of classic cars. These auctions usually span two to three days in a row, and the cars are lined up to give auction-goers and potential buyers a better view of each car.
If you are interested in taking home a car from one of these auctions, you can wait for the actual auction to begin, or you can just buy the vehicle right on the spot for the owner's asking price. There is no definite time and location for these auctions so you need to get as much information as you can if you want to participate in one.
As mentioned earlier, the time span normally allotted for these types of auctions is two to three days. In the first day, the cars are first shown to the potential buyers, bidders, and curious spectators. On the second day, the interested buyers and bidders get to test drive the cars they like in a nearby testing stage. The last day will be allotted for the actual bidding and occasional buying of the cars. You should take note when it's time to bid for the cars so that you bid on it at the right time.
There are also fast-paced car auctions, wherein the cars being auctioned are shown running and then automatically be auctioned off. After a winning bid is placed, it will immediately be replaced by a new one and the bidding will commence soon after. These classic car auctions are commonly featured on television and in magazines.
However, the first type of auction is usually for invitational events, for example, an exclusive event of a classic cars motoring club, wherein members and friends of members are the ones invited. Unless you know people who can take you to these auctions, you have to look for other ways to go in.
The second type, which is advertised on TV and magazines, could be excessively priced compared to the first one.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/classic-car-auctions-the-classic-cars-youve-always-wanted-4335121.html
About the Author
There are websites that offer information about these classic car auctions near you, so checking them regularly can bring you closer to the classic cars that you've always wanted. To get more information on where you can find auctions in your area, click here: Classic Cars for Sale.
Saturday, February 26, 2011
Classic Car News: A 1930's Classic Is Revived
Classic Car News: A 1930's Classic Is Revived
Author: Katie NortonThe legendary Alvis 4.3 litre is back in production, according to the Telegraph website, complete with "engine management, hydraulic brakes and fuel injection". One of the most innovative car manufacturers of the 1930's is back in business, and judging by the new and improved model, Alvis are back with a vengeance.
Red Triangle, the well-established Alvis Service Company have decided that the first steps to rejuvenating the classic Alvis is to wait until the Goodwood Festival of Speed next month, when the marque plan to announce details of this unique project, which will see the re-introduction of the "famous Alvis 4.3 litre model, 71 years after the last 4.3 litre Alvis was produced", according to Easier.com.
The Telegraph website has reported that anyone lucky enough to find an original Alvis model at auction would be looking to pay in the region of £400,000 - £450,000 for the elegant, open-top pre-war car. Red Triangle however plans to "produce new continuation models which will cost from around £170,000".
Like most classics, this vintage motor has played its part in motoring history, with the 4.3 litre model taking the title of "fastest non-supercharged production car of its day, covering 0-60mph in around 11 seconds", according to Easier.com, with the "continuation" series hopefully living up to this historic heritage.
According to Alan Stote, Red Triangle and Alvis Car Company proprietor, the re-birth of the Alvis model is "part of our overall business plan, which is to maintain service to existing Alvis owners but also to reintroduce selected authentic Alvis models in line with the vision of the Alvis Board all those years ago".
With its original allure and modern enhancements, the Alvis will be faithful to its classic roots while welcoming modern technological improvements – meaning this vintage vehicle should prove just as big a hit in the present as it was in the past.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/classic-car-news-a-1930s-classic-is-revived-2746742.html
About the Author
Sureterm Direct are constantly adapting their classic car insurance policies to provide new and improved insurance cover. Call free on 0800 999 2030 or click here for a competitive classic car insurance quote.
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Thursday, February 24, 2011
How to Buy a Rat Rod for Sale for Pennies on the Dollar
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Rat Rod |
How to Buy a Rat Rod for Sale for Pennies on the Dollar
Author: dj fresnoFor those of you looking to get into the rat rod scene here are a few solid suggestions that will help you not overspend while still finding the perfect rat rod project or already built rat rod to purchase. The first mistake many make when looking to buy a rat rod is actually searching for rat rods for sale. What you should be doing is locating the make, model and year of the rat rod you are looking into FIRST without having the rat rod, hot rod or classic car in your search at all.
A simple example of how this will help you understand why NOT including the actual term rat rod and other "hot niche" keywords while searching is as follows. Someone selling a rat rod odds are knows that within the rat rod scene itself they can sell it for a markup because it is exactly what a person looking for a rat rod would want BUT if you search for an exact model and year you can locate a rust bucket that is sitting on someones property who is not in the rat rod scene but simply wants it off his or her property and at many times for pennies on the dollar.
You can even come across plenty of people who have rat rods or what we would consider a rat rod just sitting around for years and would GIVE you the rat rod car or rat rod truck just to get it off their property. What you need to do now especially now that you know the best way to save a ton is to locate the make and model that you are wanting to buy and see what pops up whether in an online auction, online forum or local. Instead of the rat rod markup you can get the same rat rod vehicle for much less.
To someone in the rat rod scene a rust bucket is a goldmine but to someone outside the rat rod scene it is an eyesore and something they would like to unload on someone else. That is what I like to call a win win for everyone in the deal. You can then use all of that saved money towards all the rat rod parts you want to further make your custom rat rod more of your own style.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/how-to-buy-a-rat-rod-for-sale-for-pennies-on-the-dollar-733535.html
About the Author
Check out my site for more rat rod information if you are looking for rat rods for sale or simply want to learn more about the rat rod scene.
Sunday, February 20, 2011
Rat Rod Roadster Typical
Author: jayabaya
Rat Rod is actually a development of the Hot rod grip which began in the 1950s. You could say this genre is the antithesis of Hot Rod cars which later tend to require a high budget, high end parts, and paint the shiny or often referred to as the Trailer Queen (who had never driven a car and only displayed from one exhibition to another exhibition) .
A typical Rat Rod car usually based coupe cars or roadsster output 1930 to 1950 with a lower body from the chassis, engine bay that opens ferocious, gigantic white wall tire, low roof, trim is removed, until the paint dull (even many deliberately shows a standard metal plate without paint) and do not forget to affix the graphics line pinstripe.
Wing cars Rat Rod is a modified car by the owner and as much as possible is made using a low budget. Usually they use components of another car to get its own satisfaction. But, in the flow of Rat Rod, the owner can express all the ideas and creations without having to fear the pattern-specific pattern ... The more bizarre changes, the higher the value of its art.
Currently Rat Rod is becoming a phenomenon in the United States. Even the carpet leading Hot Rod, Goodguys provide a separate parking area for cars named Rat Rod Garage Down. This is a natural reaction of a new generation of what has been done by previous generations. In the era of the 80s, the cars Boyd Coddington creation (creators of new-age Hot Rod) are very popular.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/rat-rod-roadsster-typical-4251396.html
About the Author
jayabaya is writer about update of popular rat rods on the blog
Rat Rod is actually a development of the Hot rod grip which began in the 1950s. You could say this genre is the antithesis of Hot Rod cars which later tend to require a high budget, high end parts, and paint the shiny or often referred to as the Trailer Queen (who had never driven a car and only displayed from one exhibition to another exhibition) .
A typical Rat Rod car usually based coupe cars or roadsster output 1930 to 1950 with a lower body from the chassis, engine bay that opens ferocious, gigantic white wall tire, low roof, trim is removed, until the paint dull (even many deliberately shows a standard metal plate without paint) and do not forget to affix the graphics line pinstripe.
Wing cars Rat Rod is a modified car by the owner and as much as possible is made using a low budget. Usually they use components of another car to get its own satisfaction. But, in the flow of Rat Rod, the owner can express all the ideas and creations without having to fear the pattern-specific pattern ... The more bizarre changes, the higher the value of its art.
Currently Rat Rod is becoming a phenomenon in the United States. Even the carpet leading Hot Rod, Goodguys provide a separate parking area for cars named Rat Rod Garage Down. This is a natural reaction of a new generation of what has been done by previous generations. In the era of the 80s, the cars Boyd Coddington creation (creators of new-age Hot Rod) are very popular.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/classics-articles/rat-rod-roadsster-typical-4251396.html
About the Author
jayabaya is writer about update of popular rat rods on the blog
Thursday, February 10, 2011
Classic Cars For Sale Sports Muscle Old Street Hot Rods Trucks Motorcycles Auto Trader Classifieds
A two door nineteen thirty one Essex Sedan is ready for purchase as advertised on the classic cars for sale classifieds old ride trader website. The exterior colour of this old classic car is chrome yellow and the interior colour is beige. This car, which is one of many thousands of old classic cars for sale on the classifieds website, has only two thousand miles or three thousand two hundred and twenty kilometres on its clock. This car has an eight cylinder engine and an automatic transmission.
A dealer owns the car and is inviting all collectors, classic car fanatics and potential buyers to visit and view this car at the dealer's car lot in Dallas Fort Worth in the state of Texas in America. The dealer is asking the new owner to pay sixty five thousand five hundred dollars USD for this immaculate old classic car. The dealer's contact email address and telephone number can be obtained off the old ride trader website.
A dealer owns the car and is inviting all collectors, classic car fanatics and potential buyers to visit and view this car at the dealer's car lot in Dallas Fort Worth in the state of Texas in America. The dealer is asking the new owner to pay sixty five thousand five hundred dollars USD for this immaculate old classic car. The dealer's contact email address and telephone number can be obtained off the old ride trader website.
This is a very rare nineteen thirty one Hudson Essex two door sedan street rod and was finally rebuilt and reconstructed in the year two thousand. The rebuilding and reconstruction process involved two original Essex bodies, from nineteen twenty nine and a chassis from nineteen thirty one, which were eventually combined to create the foundation of this great old classic car. The body of both the nineteen thirty one and twenty nine cars were used in the rebuild of this car. Great attention to all detail was applied when rebuilding this classic car. The final result will be visible and obvious to all classic car collectors proving it to be a one of a kind classic motor vehicle which can never be duplicated. This car definitely needs to be inspected by enthusiasts for it to be truly appreciated and admired.
Some of the components that were used in the rebuild an reconstruction of this car were, paint and body all steel (Combination of 1929 and 1931 Essex), hand formed hood and running boards, PPG chrome yellow (2 stage paint job), colour sanded and buffed to deep shine, five inch chop filled roof custom stainless grill insert, 32 Ford headlights with custom headlight bar, front turn signals incorporated into headlights, rear car eye tail lights (very bright), front turn signals incorporated into headlights, custom hood hinges with pins for clean look, interior custom bucket seats, tan ultra leather with ostrich (imitation) inserts, custom leather headliner, wool carpeting, Lokar shifter, Lokar emergency brake lever, Lokar gas and brake pedals, Ididit polished tilt steering column, Billet steering wheel, custom one piece Billet dash plate, auto meter (antique face with gold trim) and a lot more.
People who have classic cars for sale and want to publicize that they have street rods for sale, muscle cars for sale, old cars for sale, hot rods for sale, trucks for sale, motorcycles for sale, antique cars for sale, vintage cars for sale or sports cars for sale, can do so by accessing http://www.oldridetrader.com to place their classic car classifieds for free.
Visit Classic Cars For Sale Classifieds to place your classic car classifieds for free.
To learn more about Classic Cars For Sale Classifieds and how to place your free classic car classifieds offered by Old Ride Trader visit this link Classic Cars For Sale Sports Muscle Old Street Hot Rods Trucks Motorcycles Auto Trader Classifieds.
Some of the components that were used in the rebuild an reconstruction of this car were, paint and body all steel (Combination of 1929 and 1931 Essex), hand formed hood and running boards, PPG chrome yellow (2 stage paint job), colour sanded and buffed to deep shine, five inch chop filled roof custom stainless grill insert, 32 Ford headlights with custom headlight bar, front turn signals incorporated into headlights, rear car eye tail lights (very bright), front turn signals incorporated into headlights, custom hood hinges with pins for clean look, interior custom bucket seats, tan ultra leather with ostrich (imitation) inserts, custom leather headliner, wool carpeting, Lokar shifter, Lokar emergency brake lever, Lokar gas and brake pedals, Ididit polished tilt steering column, Billet steering wheel, custom one piece Billet dash plate, auto meter (antique face with gold trim) and a lot more.
People who have classic cars for sale and want to publicize that they have street rods for sale, muscle cars for sale, old cars for sale, hot rods for sale, trucks for sale, motorcycles for sale, antique cars for sale, vintage cars for sale or sports cars for sale, can do so by accessing http://www.oldridetrader.com to place their classic car classifieds for free.
Visit Classic Cars For Sale Classifieds to place your classic car classifieds for free.
To learn more about Classic Cars For Sale Classifieds and how to place your free classic car classifieds offered by Old Ride Trader visit this link Classic Cars For Sale Sports Muscle Old Street Hot Rods Trucks Motorcycles Auto Trader Classifieds.
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