Today, May 1 is Labour day... Hmmm... I was wondering how and where it originates from. Well, thanks to Google search, I now present you: "THE ORIGIN OF LABOUR DAY".
"The Origin of Labor Day
By Ryan M. Hoback ; 09/05/05
Labor Day is truly a global holiday, or as it is known internationally May Day. The roots of Labor Day stretch back to the 1810’s and what was known as the eight hour day movement. Robert Owen, as early as 1817 had formulated the goal of the eight-hour day and coined the slogan Eight hours labor, Eight hours recreation, Eight hours rest.
In the new founded Wellington colony in 1840, the carpenter Samuel Parnell refused to work more than eight hours a day. This movement also began in Australia, when the Stonemasons stopped working and proceeded to march on Parliament from the University of Melbourne, to achieve an eight hour work day. This movement eventually found its way to Canada as well, and Labor Day in Canada as well as the United States can be attributed directly to the efforts of the Knights of Labor.
The Knights of Labor was labor union founded in secrecy in December 1869, by a group of Philadelphia tailors led by Uriah S. Stephens. Originally called 'The Noble and Holy Order of the Knights of Labor', it was designed to protect all who worked for a living. They organized a parade by on September 5, 1882 in New York City which became an annual parade when it was organized a second time in 1884.
The International Workingmen's Association, many of whom were socialists or anarchists, favored a May 1 holiday. With the event of Chicago's Haymarket riots in early May of 1886, president Grover Cleveland believed that a May 1 holiday could become an opportunity to commemorate the riots. Thus, fearing that it might strengthen the socialist movement, he quickly moved in 1887 to support the position of the Knights of Labor and their date for Labor Day.
Since then, Labor Day has been celebrated on the first Monday in September in the United States since the 1880s. The September date has remained unchanged, even though the government was encouraged to adopt May 1 as Labor Day, the date celebrated by the majority of the world.
That's all folks... Thanks for reading...
References:
1) http://www.motivatedentrepreneur.com/articles/The_Origin_of_Labor_Day.shtml
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Thursday, April 30, 2009
LONGTERMER 2: Volume 10: Honda Civic 2.0IVTEC
Longtermer #2: Volume 10: Honda Civic 2.0IVTEC
This is 10th update of Longtermer #2, Honda Civic 2.0iVTEC FD2. Sent the Civic for 15000km service. Not much, just oil change and engine draining and other Preventive maintenance service.
Took the car to Putrajaya (for friend's wedding) and back with 1/3 fuel left (4 "little" bar left). On the way back only refilled at Puchong BHP station (1st time filling BHP petrol since 2006). Man, the fuel is POWERFUL. I dared to say it's AS POWERFUL AS V-Power. I only filled RM20 (11.111L). It's good for 120km before the next fill up (10.8km/L => LESS MILEAGE THAN SHELL).
One week later I even more "gung ho", last 2 bar, managed to drove from Section 17, Petaling Jaya to Pavilion, KL AND BACK. At that time, upon reaching home the Fuel level: 0 bar left and orange warning light's on. Only fill up the next morning.
Without further ado, let's proceed to LOGBOOK.
Year of manufactured: 2008 (Duh!)
Current Value: RM113,000
Purchase price: RM126,000 (less NCB)
Mileage when bought: 0008km
Mileage last month: 14244km.
Mileage NOW: 15069km
Average mileage per month: 1507km
FUEL CONSUMPTION:
Best: 13.75km/L December 2008 (recorded by my dad, fuel: Petronas)
WORST: 10.5km/L (April 2009) => BHP
Interesting observation: 33L worth of petrol only good for 400km (12.1km/L) when I drove the car. Why? It's because of my "Heavy-footed" nature. BUT I tend to kickdown and woke up the i-VTEC a bit too often especially during traffic light start. Note: It's 40:60 city and highway driving.
Expenses:
1) 15000km preventive maintenance service. RM170. Above, picture taken @ the Service Centre.
2) Petrol, parking and toll charges
Here's a parting shot before I sign off...
AN ORIGINAL JEFF LIM Production. That's all folks, thanks for having the patience to read this.
This is 10th update of Longtermer #2, Honda Civic 2.0iVTEC FD2. Sent the Civic for 15000km service. Not much, just oil change and engine draining and other Preventive maintenance service.
Took the car to Putrajaya (for friend's wedding) and back with 1/3 fuel left (4 "little" bar left). On the way back only refilled at Puchong BHP station (1st time filling BHP petrol since 2006). Man, the fuel is POWERFUL. I dared to say it's AS POWERFUL AS V-Power. I only filled RM20 (11.111L). It's good for 120km before the next fill up (10.8km/L => LESS MILEAGE THAN SHELL).
One week later I even more "gung ho", last 2 bar, managed to drove from Section 17, Petaling Jaya to Pavilion, KL AND BACK. At that time, upon reaching home the Fuel level: 0 bar left and orange warning light's on. Only fill up the next morning.
Without further ado, let's proceed to LOGBOOK.
Year of manufactured: 2008 (Duh!)
Current Value: RM113,000
Purchase price: RM126,000 (less NCB)
Mileage when bought: 0008km
Mileage last month: 14244km.
Mileage NOW: 15069km
Average mileage per month: 1507km
FUEL CONSUMPTION:
Best: 13.75km/L December 2008 (recorded by my dad, fuel: Petronas)
WORST: 10.5km/L (April 2009) => BHP
Interesting observation: 33L worth of petrol only good for 400km (12.1km/L) when I drove the car. Why? It's because of my "Heavy-footed" nature. BUT I tend to kickdown and woke up the i-VTEC a bit too often especially during traffic light start. Note: It's 40:60 city and highway driving.
Expenses:
1) 15000km preventive maintenance service. RM170. Above, picture taken @ the Service Centre.
2) Petrol, parking and toll charges
Here's a parting shot before I sign off...
AN ORIGINAL JEFF LIM Production. That's all folks, thanks for having the patience to read this.
Monday, April 27, 2009
LONGTERMER 1: Update 10: Ford Telstar 2.0 Ghia
LONGTERMER 1: Update 10: 1998/99 Ford Telstar 2.0i4 Ghia
In this blog entry, I am updating my Ford Telstar i4 Ghia. This is the 10th update. What's up in the month of April?
Not much to highlight in the first week of April. Let's proceed to the 2nd week, after a fill up at the Petrol Station, my Telstar Can't get out of "P" gear. Earlier already "Difficult to shift to "P" gear, but that time, it's so bad that I need to call a Tow Truck to tow the car to workshop.
At the Workshop, I was quoted RM80 to fix the gear wiring.
4 days ago (Friday), my Telstar's temperature went up again, beside this problem, the Auto transmission "Overdrive" button not working. Total repair bill today: RM180.
As I typed this, I'm glad to say that the car just reached another fuel consumption record, 9km/L early this month. Without further ado, let's proceed to Logbook:
LOGBOOK:
Year of manufactured: December 1998 (registered January 1999)
Purchase price: RM42,000 (Aug 2005)
Current value: RM16,000 (As at January 2009)
Depreciation per year (averaged): RM6,500
Mileage last month: 142,465km
Mileage now: 143,110km
Fuel consumption (so far):
BEST: 9km/l (8 April 2009) = 90% Highway
WORST: 5.9km/l (27 April 2008) = 90% city
TODAY, As at 28 April,
Expenses (this month)
1) Petrol and toll charges.
2) RM80 to fix the Auto transmission (stuck in "P" gear)
3) RM180 to fix the Radiator (flush and wash)
AND Auto transmission (cannot engage "Overdrive" switch this time.
Before I go: here’s a parting shot:
End of Update, thanks for having the patience to read it...
AN ORIGINAL JEFF LIM PRODUCTION (My original work)
In this blog entry, I am updating my Ford Telstar i4 Ghia. This is the 10th update. What's up in the month of April?
Not much to highlight in the first week of April. Let's proceed to the 2nd week, after a fill up at the Petrol Station, my Telstar Can't get out of "P" gear. Earlier already "Difficult to shift to "P" gear, but that time, it's so bad that I need to call a Tow Truck to tow the car to workshop.
At the Workshop, I was quoted RM80 to fix the gear wiring.4 days ago (Friday), my Telstar's temperature went up again, beside this problem, the Auto transmission "Overdrive" button not working. Total repair bill today: RM180.
As I typed this, I'm glad to say that the car just reached another fuel consumption record, 9km/L early this month. Without further ado, let's proceed to Logbook:
LOGBOOK:
Year of manufactured: December 1998 (registered January 1999)
Purchase price: RM42,000 (Aug 2005)
Current value: RM16,000 (As at January 2009)
Depreciation per year (averaged): RM6,500
Mileage last month: 142,465km
Mileage now: 143,110km
Fuel consumption (so far):
BEST: 9km/l (8 April 2009) = 90% Highway
WORST: 5.9km/l (27 April 2008) = 90% city
TODAY, As at 28 April,
Expenses (this month)
1) Petrol and toll charges.
2) RM80 to fix the Auto transmission (stuck in "P" gear)
3) RM180 to fix the Radiator (flush and wash)
AND Auto transmission (cannot engage "Overdrive" switch this time.Before I go: here’s a parting shot:
End of Update, thanks for having the patience to read it...
AN ORIGINAL JEFF LIM PRODUCTION (My original work)
Thursday, April 23, 2009
FOLLOW UP ARTICLE (2): Dealers: Hike in car loan rates should not have happened
NOTE: THIS IS A FOLLOW-UP from PREVIOUS ARTICLE...
THE STAR ONLINE BUSINESS:
Thursday April 23, 2009
Dealers: Hike in car loan rates should not have happened
By RACHAEL KAM
PETALING JAYA: The one percentage point increase in car financing rates may only have minimal impact on vehicle sales in the longer term, but will likely boost sales of national cars at the expense of non-national vehicles, car dealers said.
But the hike in car loan rates should not have happened in these challenging times, they said.
Banks informed car dealers last Friday that hire-purchase interest rates would be increased by one percentage point effective Monday.
Car dealers contacted by StarBiz said that they just could not understand the rationale for the increase in interest rates for car loans.
Used car dealers queried whether the car financing interest rate increase is a government plan to discourage people from buying non-national cars.
They said the current lower interest rates were supposed to stimulate consumer spending, but the increase in car loan rates would be a burden to consumers during these tough times.
“The one percentage point increase in the interest rate will discourage consumers from buying used cars, especially the non-national cars, because they have to pay more to get a second-hand car.
“Thus, it would definitely affect our sales,” said second-hand car dealer Sonny Soh of Sonny Soh Sdn Bhd.
He told StarBiz that the previous interest rates of 3.5% to 5% were already one to two percentage points higher than the rates for new cars.
Currently, the company is selling only used non-national cars.
“Is this a government plan to discourage people from buying non-national cars and boost sales of national cars?” Soh asked.
New and reconditioned, or recond, car dealer Zulkifli Ahmad agrees that the hike should not have happened, but sees little impact on car sales in the longer term.
He said his company was informed by its bankers last Friday that the new interest rates for its recond cars now had increased to between 3.3% and 3.5%, compared with 2.3% to 2.5% previously.
The company is selling reconditioned or refurbished cars imported directly from Japan and Britain as well as new non-national cars.
“Higher interest rates may cause less demand in the immediate term but sales might pick up again once consumers are used to the new interest rate as people are still buying cars,” Zulkifli said.
Yap Chow Bin, the owner of used car dealer Motor Exchange, also sees little impact from the move.
Motor Exchange sells both used national and non-national cars at prices ranging from RM10,000 to RM80,000.
“Instead there may be a rise in demand for second-hand cars as there is a possible fall in demand for new cars due to the higher interest rates for new non-national cars,” he told StarBiz.
Yap said the most popular used cars he sold ranged between RM20,000 and RM30,000.
“The one percentage point increase may be just a little difference for consumers because they normally do not get big sum of loans for used cars,” he said.
The interest rates for Motor Exchange’s used national and non-national cars have increased to between 4.25% and 7%, compared with 3.1% to 6% previously.
Interest rates for used cars normally depends on the age of the vehicle, hiring period, margin of financing and even the loan borrowers’ net income, Yap explained.
Used car dealer Destiny Auto Sdn Bhd owner Mohd Khadhir Hassan said he had actually received offers of lower interest rates for its used national cars.
“Our new interest rates now are between 3.5% and 4.5%, which is lower than 4.25% to 6% previously.
“We expect an increase in sales for used national cars with the lower interest rates,” he said, adding that he reckoned the hike in car loan rates was the Government’s plan to promote national cars.
Meanwhile, hire purchase rates have been increased across the board for both new non-national cars and used cars effective Monday, banking sources said.
Banks would not make an official public announcement on that but would inform their respective car dealers, one source said.
Interest rates for popular used cars for both national and non-national cars aged up to 10 years old, have increased to between 3.75% and 4%, according to the source.
REFERENCES:
1) http://biz.thestar.com.my/news/story.asp?file=/2009/4/23/business
/3750083&sec=business
THE STAR ONLINE BUSINESS:
Thursday April 23, 2009
Dealers: Hike in car loan rates should not have happened
By RACHAEL KAM
PETALING JAYA: The one percentage point increase in car financing rates may only have minimal impact on vehicle sales in the longer term, but will likely boost sales of national cars at the expense of non-national vehicles, car dealers said.
But the hike in car loan rates should not have happened in these challenging times, they said.
Banks informed car dealers last Friday that hire-purchase interest rates would be increased by one percentage point effective Monday.
Car dealers contacted by StarBiz said that they just could not understand the rationale for the increase in interest rates for car loans.
Used car dealers queried whether the car financing interest rate increase is a government plan to discourage people from buying non-national cars.
They said the current lower interest rates were supposed to stimulate consumer spending, but the increase in car loan rates would be a burden to consumers during these tough times.
“The one percentage point increase in the interest rate will discourage consumers from buying used cars, especially the non-national cars, because they have to pay more to get a second-hand car.
“Thus, it would definitely affect our sales,” said second-hand car dealer Sonny Soh of Sonny Soh Sdn Bhd.
He told StarBiz that the previous interest rates of 3.5% to 5% were already one to two percentage points higher than the rates for new cars.
Currently, the company is selling only used non-national cars.
“Is this a government plan to discourage people from buying non-national cars and boost sales of national cars?” Soh asked.
New and reconditioned, or recond, car dealer Zulkifli Ahmad agrees that the hike should not have happened, but sees little impact on car sales in the longer term.
He said his company was informed by its bankers last Friday that the new interest rates for its recond cars now had increased to between 3.3% and 3.5%, compared with 2.3% to 2.5% previously.
The company is selling reconditioned or refurbished cars imported directly from Japan and Britain as well as new non-national cars.
“Higher interest rates may cause less demand in the immediate term but sales might pick up again once consumers are used to the new interest rate as people are still buying cars,” Zulkifli said.
Yap Chow Bin, the owner of used car dealer Motor Exchange, also sees little impact from the move.
Motor Exchange sells both used national and non-national cars at prices ranging from RM10,000 to RM80,000.
“Instead there may be a rise in demand for second-hand cars as there is a possible fall in demand for new cars due to the higher interest rates for new non-national cars,” he told StarBiz.
Yap said the most popular used cars he sold ranged between RM20,000 and RM30,000.
“The one percentage point increase may be just a little difference for consumers because they normally do not get big sum of loans for used cars,” he said.
The interest rates for Motor Exchange’s used national and non-national cars have increased to between 4.25% and 7%, compared with 3.1% to 6% previously.
Interest rates for used cars normally depends on the age of the vehicle, hiring period, margin of financing and even the loan borrowers’ net income, Yap explained.
Used car dealer Destiny Auto Sdn Bhd owner Mohd Khadhir Hassan said he had actually received offers of lower interest rates for its used national cars.
“Our new interest rates now are between 3.5% and 4.5%, which is lower than 4.25% to 6% previously.
“We expect an increase in sales for used national cars with the lower interest rates,” he said, adding that he reckoned the hike in car loan rates was the Government’s plan to promote national cars.
Meanwhile, hire purchase rates have been increased across the board for both new non-national cars and used cars effective Monday, banking sources said.
Banks would not make an official public announcement on that but would inform their respective car dealers, one source said.
Interest rates for popular used cars for both national and non-national cars aged up to 10 years old, have increased to between 3.75% and 4%, according to the source.
REFERENCES:
1) http://biz.thestar.com.my/news/story.asp?file=/2009/4/23/business
/3750083&sec=business
ARTICLE: Interest rates for (Non-national) car loans raised...
THE STAR: BUSINESS
Tuesday April 21, 2009
Interest rates for car loans raised
By YVONNE TAN and ELAINE ANG
Dealers confirm higher charges for purchases of non-national cars
PETALING JAYA: Interest rates on car loans have been raised effective yesterday, car dealers confirmed.
A senior sales adviser with UMW Toyota Motor Sdn Bhd said rates had been raised although he said nothing official had come out from banks as yet.
Most major banks declined to comment when contacted.
However, a random check by StarBiz found that Malayan Banking Bhd (Maybank), one of the largest hire purchase financiers in the country, raised its rates yesterday.
ABOVE: Workers assembling Perodua cars at its factory in Rawang, Selangor. Maybank is now offering slightly lower hire purchase rates for national cars. - Reuters
Hire purchase interest rates for new non-national cars (such as Toyota and Nissan) have increased to 3.25% for loan tenures of five years and below, 3.4% for six to seven years and 3.5% for eight- to nine-year loans.
Previous hire purchase interest rates were in the range of 2.4% to 2.5%.
But in the case of new national cars, the opposite prevails. Maybank which used to offer a flat rate of 3.6% for loans up to nine years for Perodua cars and 3.75% for Proton cars, is now offering slightly lower rates. For loans of five years and below the rate is 3.5%, six to seven years (3.65%) and for eight to nine years (3.75%).
Meanwhile, a senior officer at Toyota said: “Interest rates for Toyota cars used to be between 2.6% and 2.8%, depending on the tenure of the loan. The average rate is about 3.2% now.”
However, Toyota has “a special promotion” for its best selling model, the Toyota Vios.
Under the promotion which is valid until the end of this month, interest rates are as low as 1.68% for a five-year loan, 1.78% for a seven-year tenure and 1.88% for nine years.
An Edaran Tan Chong Motor Sdn Bhd dealer who distributes Nissan cars concurred that rates had been adjusted upwards effective yesterday.
“Interest rates were 2.4% to 2.5% before but today (yesterday), we heard that this has been increased to 3.2% for a five-year loan and 3.4% for seven years,” he said.
An analyst with a local stockbroking firm expects hire purchase interest rates to stabilise, going forward.
“Raising hire purchase rates will help banks to protect their margins. Credit risk is also higher in the current economic slowdown and this must be priced in as well.
“Competing via interest rates is not a good way. The rates are low already. How much lower can they go?” the analyst said, adding that interest rates for new national cars were higher than for new non-national cars.
This was because the credit risk was traditionally higher as the target customer segment of national cars was the lower to middle income group, she noted.
END OF ARTICLE.
Reference:
1) http://biz.thestar.com.my/news/story.asp?file=/2009/4/21/business/
3734446&sec=business
Tuesday April 21, 2009
Interest rates for car loans raised
By YVONNE TAN and ELAINE ANG
Dealers confirm higher charges for purchases of non-national cars
PETALING JAYA: Interest rates on car loans have been raised effective yesterday, car dealers confirmed.
A senior sales adviser with UMW Toyota Motor Sdn Bhd said rates had been raised although he said nothing official had come out from banks as yet.
Most major banks declined to comment when contacted.
However, a random check by StarBiz found that Malayan Banking Bhd (Maybank), one of the largest hire purchase financiers in the country, raised its rates yesterday.
ABOVE: Workers assembling Perodua cars at its factory in Rawang, Selangor. Maybank is now offering slightly lower hire purchase rates for national cars. - Reuters
Hire purchase interest rates for new non-national cars (such as Toyota and Nissan) have increased to 3.25% for loan tenures of five years and below, 3.4% for six to seven years and 3.5% for eight- to nine-year loans.
Previous hire purchase interest rates were in the range of 2.4% to 2.5%.
But in the case of new national cars, the opposite prevails. Maybank which used to offer a flat rate of 3.6% for loans up to nine years for Perodua cars and 3.75% for Proton cars, is now offering slightly lower rates. For loans of five years and below the rate is 3.5%, six to seven years (3.65%) and for eight to nine years (3.75%).
Meanwhile, a senior officer at Toyota said: “Interest rates for Toyota cars used to be between 2.6% and 2.8%, depending on the tenure of the loan. The average rate is about 3.2% now.”
However, Toyota has “a special promotion” for its best selling model, the Toyota Vios.
Under the promotion which is valid until the end of this month, interest rates are as low as 1.68% for a five-year loan, 1.78% for a seven-year tenure and 1.88% for nine years.
An Edaran Tan Chong Motor Sdn Bhd dealer who distributes Nissan cars concurred that rates had been adjusted upwards effective yesterday.
“Interest rates were 2.4% to 2.5% before but today (yesterday), we heard that this has been increased to 3.2% for a five-year loan and 3.4% for seven years,” he said.
An analyst with a local stockbroking firm expects hire purchase interest rates to stabilise, going forward.
“Raising hire purchase rates will help banks to protect their margins. Credit risk is also higher in the current economic slowdown and this must be priced in as well.
“Competing via interest rates is not a good way. The rates are low already. How much lower can they go?” the analyst said, adding that interest rates for new national cars were higher than for new non-national cars.
This was because the credit risk was traditionally higher as the target customer segment of national cars was the lower to middle income group, she noted.
END OF ARTICLE.
Reference:
1) http://biz.thestar.com.my/news/story.asp?file=/2009/4/21/business/
3734446&sec=business
For Sale: Peugeot 206 Original Rims!
UPDATE: Rims have been sold. Many thanks.
Dear Readers,
I have a set of Peugeot 206 original rims for sale.
All Peugeot alloy wheels are put through rigorous performance tests, giving you the ultimate feel for the road. Every one is then meticulously tested for construction quality, ensuring that they continue to look the part and go the distance.
It is perfect match for any 206 Bestari owners who would like to be different but don't fancy changing to a bigger rims i.e. need to change the tyres(!) which will burn a big hole in your pocket and also reduce the ride comfort and fuel efficiency.
I also is in the opinion that this rim design looks better than the standard Bestari rim design.
Note: You can use your existing tyres with this rims.
Take a look for yourself!
The rims need a bath! and TLC from a new owner.. its been in storage for around 2 years.
Reason for selling?
I decided to give up my little dream of using it back (as and when I desire).
Details:
Number of rims: 4 pieces + original rim caps included
Condition: Used but in good condition
Name of rims : Vulcan / Boreal
Size: 14 inch x 5.5J
Interested? Call/sms 0.
Payment method:
In advance (bank-in) to secure booking or COD.
Delivery:
Self-collect / Pick-up at KL () area.
Price : RM (nett)
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
What's with Streamyx? Super SLOW... Took....
TELEKOM Malaysia, what's the problem with your Streamyx. It's SUPER SLOW, I dared to say EVEN 56k modem (average download 5kb/sec is ALMOST AS FAST AS your so called 512k/sec (average download 9kb/secs only). Guess what?
It took me 1 hour and still counting to upload a 27MB Video (MP4 format) to my blog. Yes, It's that bad, SO LONG that I HAVE TO "Cancel the Download". Adding salt to the wound, EVEN a 5MB Video file also took 30 minutes and counting. Again, I have to Cancel the Download due to impatience.
I mean hey, I paid RM66 per month only to receive such Service. The only solution I suggest for Telekom Malaysia is "TEMPORARY STOP" accepting New Application/accounts AND increase your server whether it is by Quantity or Quality (stable connection and speed).
OR do it the HARD WAY, Remove your FREAKING MONOPOLY. Example: Like Hong Kong, the country have 50 different ISP to choose from and their connection is like EXTREMELY FAST (Especially CABLE TV package). Don't know how fast as their website is in CHINESE.
One more thing, the connection is UNSTABLE, Sometimes can connect, sometimes the DSL light "Blinking". Does it means server busy?
Called CUSTOMER SERVICE months ago, they said MY AREA (Section 17, Petaling Jaya), is oversubscribed (by those UM and UTAR Students renting rooms near my area). Since you guys knew about the Problem WHY NO ACTION taken?
VERY DISAPPOINTED...
It took me 1 hour and still counting to upload a 27MB Video (MP4 format) to my blog. Yes, It's that bad, SO LONG that I HAVE TO "Cancel the Download". Adding salt to the wound, EVEN a 5MB Video file also took 30 minutes and counting. Again, I have to Cancel the Download due to impatience.
I mean hey, I paid RM66 per month only to receive such Service. The only solution I suggest for Telekom Malaysia is "TEMPORARY STOP" accepting New Application/accounts AND increase your server whether it is by Quantity or Quality (stable connection and speed).
OR do it the HARD WAY, Remove your FREAKING MONOPOLY. Example: Like Hong Kong, the country have 50 different ISP to choose from and their connection is like EXTREMELY FAST (Especially CABLE TV package). Don't know how fast as their website is in CHINESE.
One more thing, the connection is UNSTABLE, Sometimes can connect, sometimes the DSL light "Blinking". Does it means server busy?
Called CUSTOMER SERVICE months ago, they said MY AREA (Section 17, Petaling Jaya), is oversubscribed (by those UM and UTAR Students renting rooms near my area). Since you guys knew about the Problem WHY NO ACTION taken?
VERY DISAPPOINTED...
Monday, April 20, 2009
Saturday, April 18, 2009
FULL REVIEW: Toyota SERA (1990 to 95)
FULL REVIEW: MODERN CLASSIC. Toyota SERA 1.5(A) 1990 to 1995.
In this blog entry, I'm covering one of my Childhood's favourite car. It is no other than the "GULL WINGED" Toyota Sera 1.5(A). I was only 11 years old when first I saw the SERA in KL International Motorshow 1990. It was a "LOVE AT 1st SIGHT" back then as I marvelled at the Special "Open upwards" DOOR. Hence, I told myself, "QUE SERA SERA, I WILL OWN YOU SOMEDAY".
The SERA's produced strictly for Japan Domestic Market (JDM), though few units were exported to Malaysia by Grey Importers.
The Toyota Sera is a fantastic concept car by Toyota. with 15852 units made from 1990 to 1994. An estimated 150 units of Toyota Sera made their way to Malaysia.
Market value for a Toyota SERA in Malaysia. The SERA has no FIXED Market price It's BOTH Buyers and seller's market due to the RARITY. Recently, there's one 1991 model going for RM35000. But there's one early 90s Black unit from ZEROTOHUNDRED (ZTH) sold for a mere RM20,000 cash.
Due to the rarity, I don't have a chance to Test drive / FEEL the car. All is not lost, I dished out 1 DEALS ON WHEELS (UK) VIDEO on Toyota Sera (to be upload by 21 April), 1 Buyer's guide, 1 "Technical Specification" and 3 owner's review (from Carsurvey).
(1)
Without further ado, here's the "Buyer's guide)
BUYER'S GUIDE (2):
A few tips on what to look for when buying a Toyota Sera.
All the exterior body panels are unique to the Sera and are not shared with any European Toyota. When considering purchasing a car, inspect the body closely for damage and signs of accident repair. If there is signs of accident repair, I would advise you to seek further advice.
Bodywork is generally the most expensive part of a car to repair.
A small magnet will be useful to check that the car has not had dents repaired with filler - magnets stick to the body, but not to filler. Small parking dents can often easily knocked out if the dent has not broken the paint.
In the event of an accident, specialist body shops, such as the one at Omicron, can fabricate panels from sheet steel to fit the Sera, or panels can be shipped from Japan. Bear in mind that a panel takes up a lot of volume, so shipping costs, which are often charged on the volumetric scale rather than normal weight scale.
Front and rear bumpers are plastic mouldings painted body colour. Lamps are also unique to the Sera and have to come from Japan.
The glass on the Sera is unique - there are 6 pieces altogether - the windscreen, the rear screen, and two pieces for each door - the drop glass and the other piece curving up into the roof.
The front screen is laminated (ie two panes of glass sandwiching an adhesive, transparant plastic film), the rest of the glass is toughened (ie shatters into millions of tiny cubes.)
Check these panes for damage - the two door drop glasses should raise and lower nicely and smoothly. Is is not uncommon to find slight scores on the drop glasses caused by trapped grit particles.
Drivers window has an automatic up/down facility - press down slightly for normal operation, press fully for automatic drop, naturally the opposite direction is the same.
The rear screen has the rear demist and is supported by two struts. This glass also incorporates the radio aerial, although in some areas an external aerial is sometimes fitted to aid reception.
Check seats for damage to the cloth and make sure they move properly. The drivers seat also has a height adjuster. The rear seats fold to reveal a removable panel separating the car from the boot. There are two rear lap belts on early cars, later cars had 3 point belts in the rear.
In the passenger footwell, you may find two clips, or a red 'cigar' sized object down there. This is instead of a hazard triangle, and is in fact a small chemical lightstick. There is a best before date on it - Its up to you to decide if you want it in the car!
The cars originally came with two removable roof panels which cut out the glare from the sun. It would be nice if these were with the car. UK regulations call for a rear fog lamp. Picture SOURCE: (6)
The dash is sometimes spoilt by people hurriedly fitting a switch. There is a blanking plate for an extra switch next to the mirror controls on the RHS of the steering wheel.
The cars are originally fitted with a KM/H speedo. To convert to MPH divide by 8 and multiply by 5. There are three ways of converting to read into MPH. Both have pro's and con's.
In the boot there should be a tool kit and a spacesaver spare wheel. Check if the car has locking wheel nuts - check that the key required to unlock these is present.
The CV joints are prone to wear - to check these, put the car in reverse and drive backwards on full steering lock. If you hear a 'clonk', there is some wear and should be replaced at some point in the future. Do this steering in both directions.
Put your weight on each corner of the car to test the shock absorbers - they should compress and then return to the original position quickly. If the car bounces around, maybe there is excessive wear in the dampers.
The gas struts for the doors weaken through use - the more frequently used drivers door may not support its own weight. These can be rebuilt or easily replaced.
The engine (Toyota 5E-FHE) is generally reliable, but check oil level and colour - there have been engine failures caused by low oil levels or oil starvation caused by oil deposits clogging the engine. I would recommend all Seras to have an engine flushing at each service. It is best to be on the safe side.
The cam belt should be changed at 100,000km, or sooner if there is no evidence of the last change, or a long period without use. Changing the timing belt isn't really a DIY job.
Whilst under the bonnet, check that the brake fluid and power steering reservoirs are full.
Brakes - some cars had ABS which meant brake discs and brake pads on each wheel. Some cars had drum brakes at the rear, and hence brake shoes. Some cars also had a drivers airbag.
Brake Fluid - use DoT 4 or higher specification rather than DoT 3. DoT 3 has a lower boiling point and isn't recommended.
ACCESSORIES:
There was a wide selection of extra-cost options for the Sera including ABS, body decals, protective rubbing strips, corner finder, reversing aids, door kick plates, rear spoiler, tinting, alloy wheels, dash mounted cup holder, central storage locker as well as interior telephones, navigation systems, CD-autochangers, in-car fax machines, front fog lamps and a choice of two automatic in-car fragrancers.
SOURCE (6):
There is not a huge amount of headroom in the rear for tall people. The car should be regarded as a 2+2 or even a 2 seater rather than a proper 4 seater.
The market prices in the UK can vary wildly.
Generally - you get what you pay for, although excellent cars do sometimes sell at below market value and vice versa. It is always worth looking at cars out of your intended price range.
A sub £ 2000 SERA will be requiring some cosmetic attention, or may be high mileage.
£ 3000 - £ 4000 will be generally be presentable and in average to above average condition.
£ 4000 + will be newer cars, or lower mileage cars, very highly specified or notable for some other reason
-END OF ARTICLE. Sourced from: http://www.omicron.uk.com/sera/serabuyr.html
Technical Specifications: SOURCE: http://www.omicron.uk.com/sera/aboutsera.html
Model Code EXY10
Track 55.3" front and rear
Wheelbase 90.6"
Length 152.0"
Width 65.0"
Height 49.8"
Weight 2075 lbs
Engine Code 5E-FHE
Engine type transverse inline 4 cylinder, DOHC, 16v, cast iron block, alloy cylinder head, belt driven, with geared camshafts.
Peak power 108bhp @ 6400 rpm
Peak torque 97 lb ft @ 5200 rpm
Bore x Stroke, mm 73.9mm x 87.1mm (2.91" x 3.43")
Capacity 1496cc
Compression Ratio 9.8:1
Ignition Breakerless, Electronic igntion.
Fuel Supply Fuel injected
Steering Rack and Pinion, power assisted
Brakes Vented discs (front), drums at rear unless fitted with ABS - discs all round
Front Suspension MacPherson struts with lower control arms and anti-roll bar
Rear Suspension Trailing arm beam axle, Panhard Rod, coil springs, dampers and anti-roll bar
Wheels / Tyres
Body Monocoque construction, steel
Transmission 5 speed manual or 4 speed automatic driving front wheels via unequal length driveshafts
Ignition Breakerless, Electronic igntion.
COLOUR CHOICES:
Certain colours phased out and other colours phased in during the lifespan of the Sera. Wine Red and Dark Grey for example was phased out when the phase 2 Sera was introduced, and at that point Burnt Orange and Astral Black was introduced.
Some people have had their Seras repainted - the above are the standard Toyota colours. I have seen yellow and white Seras...
END OF TECH SPECIFICATIONS.
Picture above, scissor door, also featured in McLaren F1.
Let's proceed to review from the Owners of Toyota Sera.
Owner's review 1: SOURCE: http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/toyota/sera/r68636/
1990 Toyota Sera ACPH review from UK and Ireland
"Often misunderstood, Toyota's baby supercar is really a sensible, practical city car"
What things have gone wrong with the car?
Very little has gone wrong with this, my second Sera. My first example had been poorly maintained - as an Import, little can be known about the car's previous history, and the Sera needs to have frequent oil changes. My last one failed with 90,000 miles, the head gasket and rings went - but it had been poorly maintained.
With 175,000km on this one, it's still running like clockwork.
Failures I've had to correct on this one have been the the usual failure of the headlight glass, which discolours with age, and the thermostat had stuck open - another common failure which causes a lot of odd problems such as the gearbox refusing to engage overdrive!
Interior has held up well, though the 14 year old factory fit Double DIN stereo system is starting to flake out now. Previous Sera had worn rubbers on the doors, costing £160 per door in parts to fix properly (but no doubt good for another 14 years!).
General comments?
The Sera is a remarkable car. Whilst people in the UK snapped up the personal imports as a miniature supercar (which, with a 110bhp engine and automatic transmission in most examples, it clearly isn't - though it does overtake with alacrity in kickdown at the critical 45-55mph speed around here), and in the Japanese market it was a sophisticated car for professional women, I actually think the Sera is the perfect town car for most people.
For the usual uses of small cars - a couple, shopping and commuting - the Sera is fantastic. The boot is small, but the rear seats fold flat, leaving a convenient and accessible platform. Most Sera owners don't make use of the boot since the parcel shelf clips shut.
The seats are ideal for petite women - the bolsters are low and narrow, so when a larger car pushes your shoulders forward, the Sera's seats fit snugly - but still tolerable for a 600km drive for a 95 percentile male - taller people will find the seats lack travel. Fuel economy is good, as you'd expect of a light, efficient Japanese car, and spares availability and cost is brilliant from Toyota main dealers - a new front bumper, pre-painted, is £215, headlights are £150 each. A full stainless exhaust system is available.
The doors - the most unique part of the car, later copied for the McLaren F1 and Ferrari Enzo - are fantastic in tight parking spaces. The sideways movement is minimal, allowing the doors to be opened fully in tight spaces, and the visibility with the glass roof is incredible. Rear seat passengers are cramped, but do enjoy excellent vision through the roof.
Handling is a touchy subject. With standard Japanese suspension (especially worn suspension, as most imports will have - Seras haven't been produced since 1994) they're skittish and twitchy, but still quite tolerable. Upgrades do improve it, but often at the expense of ride quality. Experimenting with UK-market struts from the Paseo/Starlet may result in improvements. The basic geometry of the car is fine, and the low stance means other road users assume it's faster than it is and often let you pass without speeding up, something that happens often in my Supra.
The main criticism I have of the car is the headlights. They are abysmal, and whilst fitting new light units does improve them, the real improvement is to upgrade these early projectors (again, one of the first production cars to feature them) to HID bulbs, currently around £400 expense.
For more information on the Sera, the UK owners' 'club' has a website at http://www.toyotasera.co.uk/ where you can read more about these unusual cars, and find examples for sale.
Owner's review 2:
1991 Toyota Sera review from UK and Ireland
"A rare work of art"
What things have gone wrong with the car?
So far, no major faults have been encountered. The door struts had started to sag, so they were re-gassed which seems to have cured them for now.
The super live surround sound had a problem with the amplifier when bought, but this has since been replaced.
General comments?
Just to explain, the comfort marks seem low, but that's only compared to my previous car. It's not really that bad.
The Sera isn't a fast car, but it's nippy. It's not about speed though, it's about driving a very rare and stunning looking car. A glass roof and gull-wing doors for a few thousand pounds... 1992 Toyota Sera Phase III Manual SLSS review from UK and Ireland.
"Manual transmission makes it sprightly and fun, the Phase III spoiler and grey interior is handsome"
What things have gone wrong with the car?
Very little has gone wrong with the car as a result of Toyota's build, though at 14, the suspension bushes, door struts and other parts are getting quite tired.
The importer made a total mess of the car's wiring, and consequently also the bodywork, just to fit a foglight. They also ruined the trim. When buying a Sera in the UK, it is worth checking the interior very carefully for damage.
The Japanese do generally take care of their cars. I wish the British would do the same.
General comments?
The manual transmission is fantastic, with a rifle-bolt slick gearchange (click-click - very positive). Handling is poor on this one because the dampers are now well past serviceable - replacing the suspension will cost around £700 for genuine parts.
The Phase III Sera offers a couple of small refinements - it has a plastic, instead of rubber, spoiler with a high level brake light (the primary identifying factor), three-point belts in the rear on some models, and grey interiors (Phase I and II models have blue or beige). They also have side impact beams.
For servicing it is essential to take the chassis number. My car, built in July 92, required stronger door struts to compensate for the side impact protection, and I ordered the wrong kind. Doors should lift themselves from waist height, if you want to see operation is correct. Strut balancers, the internal component of the struts, actually make a significant difference on older cars. Expect to pay £300 per door to rebuild the mechanism fully.
Owner's review 3: SOURCE: http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/toyota/sera/r75962/
1991 Toyota Sera review from UK and Ireland
"Looks and performance combined, a great budget beauty"
What things have gone wrong with the car?
Very little trouble with this car. The door struts are slightly weak, but other than absolutely no problems.
General comments?
This is without a doubt the best car I have ever owned for a number of reasons. While it may not be a power-house, it is certainly quick enough to handle most situations.
The reliability is incredible, a 14 year old car that will take all the abuse you can throw at it, and come out purring is a rarity. This coupled with the fantastic design, inside and out makes it a joy to own.
I have been a proud owner of this car for 8 years now. I'm in love with it. It's a beauty both from the outside and from the inside. A head turner. Very fast and economical.
I still can't believe it's a 1990 car, 16 years old, since its still one of the most sexy cars driving in todays roads.
Its not unusual to find people admiring it or watching it in amazement, as I open the doors upwards. I just can't find the right words to describe this car... A rare Gem maybe!!!
REFERENCES:
(1) Picture Sourced from SERA DOWN UNDER Club: http://www.alttokyo.com/gg/cars/sera/
(2)BUYER"S GUIDE: Sourced from: http://www.omicron.uk.com/sera/serabuyr.html
3)Technical Specifications: SOURCE: http://www.omicron.uk.com/sera/aboutsera.html
4) Owner's review: www.carsurvey.org/reviews/toyota/sera
5) http://www.kei-cars.com/pic/Sera3.jpg
6) FOR SOME PHOTOS. http://www.redflagdeals.com/forums/showthread.php?t=491993
THAT"S ALL FOLKS, Thanks for having the time and patience to read this blog entry.
In this blog entry, I'm covering one of my Childhood's favourite car. It is no other than the "GULL WINGED" Toyota Sera 1.5(A). I was only 11 years old when first I saw the SERA in KL International Motorshow 1990. It was a "LOVE AT 1st SIGHT" back then as I marvelled at the Special "Open upwards" DOOR. Hence, I told myself, "QUE SERA SERA, I WILL OWN YOU SOMEDAY".
The SERA's produced strictly for Japan Domestic Market (JDM), though few units were exported to Malaysia by Grey Importers.
The Toyota Sera is a fantastic concept car by Toyota. with 15852 units made from 1990 to 1994. An estimated 150 units of Toyota Sera made their way to Malaysia.
Market value for a Toyota SERA in Malaysia. The SERA has no FIXED Market price It's BOTH Buyers and seller's market due to the RARITY. Recently, there's one 1991 model going for RM35000. But there's one early 90s Black unit from ZEROTOHUNDRED (ZTH) sold for a mere RM20,000 cash.
Due to the rarity, I don't have a chance to Test drive / FEEL the car. All is not lost, I dished out 1 DEALS ON WHEELS (UK) VIDEO on Toyota Sera (to be upload by 21 April), 1 Buyer's guide, 1 "Technical Specification" and 3 owner's review (from Carsurvey).
(1)Without further ado, here's the "Buyer's guide)
BUYER'S GUIDE (2):
A few tips on what to look for when buying a Toyota Sera.
All the exterior body panels are unique to the Sera and are not shared with any European Toyota. When considering purchasing a car, inspect the body closely for damage and signs of accident repair. If there is signs of accident repair, I would advise you to seek further advice.
Bodywork is generally the most expensive part of a car to repair.
A small magnet will be useful to check that the car has not had dents repaired with filler - magnets stick to the body, but not to filler. Small parking dents can often easily knocked out if the dent has not broken the paint.
In the event of an accident, specialist body shops, such as the one at Omicron, can fabricate panels from sheet steel to fit the Sera, or panels can be shipped from Japan. Bear in mind that a panel takes up a lot of volume, so shipping costs, which are often charged on the volumetric scale rather than normal weight scale.
Front and rear bumpers are plastic mouldings painted body colour. Lamps are also unique to the Sera and have to come from Japan.
The glass on the Sera is unique - there are 6 pieces altogether - the windscreen, the rear screen, and two pieces for each door - the drop glass and the other piece curving up into the roof.
The front screen is laminated (ie two panes of glass sandwiching an adhesive, transparant plastic film), the rest of the glass is toughened (ie shatters into millions of tiny cubes.)
Check these panes for damage - the two door drop glasses should raise and lower nicely and smoothly. Is is not uncommon to find slight scores on the drop glasses caused by trapped grit particles.
Drivers window has an automatic up/down facility - press down slightly for normal operation, press fully for automatic drop, naturally the opposite direction is the same.
The rear screen has the rear demist and is supported by two struts. This glass also incorporates the radio aerial, although in some areas an external aerial is sometimes fitted to aid reception.
Check seats for damage to the cloth and make sure they move properly. The drivers seat also has a height adjuster. The rear seats fold to reveal a removable panel separating the car from the boot. There are two rear lap belts on early cars, later cars had 3 point belts in the rear.
In the passenger footwell, you may find two clips, or a red 'cigar' sized object down there. This is instead of a hazard triangle, and is in fact a small chemical lightstick. There is a best before date on it - Its up to you to decide if you want it in the car!
The cars originally came with two removable roof panels which cut out the glare from the sun. It would be nice if these were with the car. UK regulations call for a rear fog lamp. Picture SOURCE: (6)
The dash is sometimes spoilt by people hurriedly fitting a switch. There is a blanking plate for an extra switch next to the mirror controls on the RHS of the steering wheel.The cars are originally fitted with a KM/H speedo. To convert to MPH divide by 8 and multiply by 5. There are three ways of converting to read into MPH. Both have pro's and con's.
In the boot there should be a tool kit and a spacesaver spare wheel. Check if the car has locking wheel nuts - check that the key required to unlock these is present.
The CV joints are prone to wear - to check these, put the car in reverse and drive backwards on full steering lock. If you hear a 'clonk', there is some wear and should be replaced at some point in the future. Do this steering in both directions.
Put your weight on each corner of the car to test the shock absorbers - they should compress and then return to the original position quickly. If the car bounces around, maybe there is excessive wear in the dampers.
The gas struts for the doors weaken through use - the more frequently used drivers door may not support its own weight. These can be rebuilt or easily replaced.
The engine (Toyota 5E-FHE) is generally reliable, but check oil level and colour - there have been engine failures caused by low oil levels or oil starvation caused by oil deposits clogging the engine. I would recommend all Seras to have an engine flushing at each service. It is best to be on the safe side.
The cam belt should be changed at 100,000km, or sooner if there is no evidence of the last change, or a long period without use. Changing the timing belt isn't really a DIY job.
Whilst under the bonnet, check that the brake fluid and power steering reservoirs are full.
Brakes - some cars had ABS which meant brake discs and brake pads on each wheel. Some cars had drum brakes at the rear, and hence brake shoes. Some cars also had a drivers airbag.
Brake Fluid - use DoT 4 or higher specification rather than DoT 3. DoT 3 has a lower boiling point and isn't recommended.
ACCESSORIES:
There was a wide selection of extra-cost options for the Sera including ABS, body decals, protective rubbing strips, corner finder, reversing aids, door kick plates, rear spoiler, tinting, alloy wheels, dash mounted cup holder, central storage locker as well as interior telephones, navigation systems, CD-autochangers, in-car fax machines, front fog lamps and a choice of two automatic in-car fragrancers.
SOURCE (6):
There is not a huge amount of headroom in the rear for tall people. The car should be regarded as a 2+2 or even a 2 seater rather than a proper 4 seater.
The market prices in the UK can vary wildly.
Generally - you get what you pay for, although excellent cars do sometimes sell at below market value and vice versa. It is always worth looking at cars out of your intended price range.
A sub £ 2000 SERA will be requiring some cosmetic attention, or may be high mileage.
£ 3000 - £ 4000 will be generally be presentable and in average to above average condition.
£ 4000 + will be newer cars, or lower mileage cars, very highly specified or notable for some other reason
-END OF ARTICLE. Sourced from: http://www.omicron.uk.com/sera/serabuyr.html
Technical Specifications: SOURCE: http://www.omicron.uk.com/sera/aboutsera.html
Model Code EXY10
Track 55.3" front and rear
Wheelbase 90.6"
Length 152.0"
Width 65.0"
Height 49.8"
Weight 2075 lbs
Engine Code 5E-FHE
Engine type transverse inline 4 cylinder, DOHC, 16v, cast iron block, alloy cylinder head, belt driven, with geared camshafts.
Peak power 108bhp @ 6400 rpm
Peak torque 97 lb ft @ 5200 rpm
Bore x Stroke, mm 73.9mm x 87.1mm (2.91" x 3.43")
Capacity 1496cc
Compression Ratio 9.8:1
Ignition Breakerless, Electronic igntion.
Fuel Supply Fuel injected
Steering Rack and Pinion, power assisted
Brakes Vented discs (front), drums at rear unless fitted with ABS - discs all round
Front Suspension MacPherson struts with lower control arms and anti-roll bar
Rear Suspension Trailing arm beam axle, Panhard Rod, coil springs, dampers and anti-roll bar
Wheels / Tyres
Body Monocoque construction, steel
Transmission 5 speed manual or 4 speed automatic driving front wheels via unequal length driveshafts
Ignition Breakerless, Electronic igntion.
COLOUR CHOICES:
Certain colours phased out and other colours phased in during the lifespan of the Sera. Wine Red and Dark Grey for example was phased out when the phase 2 Sera was introduced, and at that point Burnt Orange and Astral Black was introduced.
Some people have had their Seras repainted - the above are the standard Toyota colours. I have seen yellow and white Seras...
END OF TECH SPECIFICATIONS.
Picture above, scissor door, also featured in McLaren F1.
Let's proceed to review from the Owners of Toyota Sera.
Owner's review 1: SOURCE: http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/toyota/sera/r68636/
1990 Toyota Sera ACPH review from UK and Ireland
"Often misunderstood, Toyota's baby supercar is really a sensible, practical city car"
What things have gone wrong with the car?
Very little has gone wrong with this, my second Sera. My first example had been poorly maintained - as an Import, little can be known about the car's previous history, and the Sera needs to have frequent oil changes. My last one failed with 90,000 miles, the head gasket and rings went - but it had been poorly maintained.
With 175,000km on this one, it's still running like clockwork.
Failures I've had to correct on this one have been the the usual failure of the headlight glass, which discolours with age, and the thermostat had stuck open - another common failure which causes a lot of odd problems such as the gearbox refusing to engage overdrive!
Interior has held up well, though the 14 year old factory fit Double DIN stereo system is starting to flake out now. Previous Sera had worn rubbers on the doors, costing £160 per door in parts to fix properly (but no doubt good for another 14 years!).
General comments?
The Sera is a remarkable car. Whilst people in the UK snapped up the personal imports as a miniature supercar (which, with a 110bhp engine and automatic transmission in most examples, it clearly isn't - though it does overtake with alacrity in kickdown at the critical 45-55mph speed around here), and in the Japanese market it was a sophisticated car for professional women, I actually think the Sera is the perfect town car for most people.
For the usual uses of small cars - a couple, shopping and commuting - the Sera is fantastic. The boot is small, but the rear seats fold flat, leaving a convenient and accessible platform. Most Sera owners don't make use of the boot since the parcel shelf clips shut.
The seats are ideal for petite women - the bolsters are low and narrow, so when a larger car pushes your shoulders forward, the Sera's seats fit snugly - but still tolerable for a 600km drive for a 95 percentile male - taller people will find the seats lack travel. Fuel economy is good, as you'd expect of a light, efficient Japanese car, and spares availability and cost is brilliant from Toyota main dealers - a new front bumper, pre-painted, is £215, headlights are £150 each. A full stainless exhaust system is available.
The doors - the most unique part of the car, later copied for the McLaren F1 and Ferrari Enzo - are fantastic in tight parking spaces. The sideways movement is minimal, allowing the doors to be opened fully in tight spaces, and the visibility with the glass roof is incredible. Rear seat passengers are cramped, but do enjoy excellent vision through the roof.
Handling is a touchy subject. With standard Japanese suspension (especially worn suspension, as most imports will have - Seras haven't been produced since 1994) they're skittish and twitchy, but still quite tolerable. Upgrades do improve it, but often at the expense of ride quality. Experimenting with UK-market struts from the Paseo/Starlet may result in improvements. The basic geometry of the car is fine, and the low stance means other road users assume it's faster than it is and often let you pass without speeding up, something that happens often in my Supra.
The main criticism I have of the car is the headlights. They are abysmal, and whilst fitting new light units does improve them, the real improvement is to upgrade these early projectors (again, one of the first production cars to feature them) to HID bulbs, currently around £400 expense.
For more information on the Sera, the UK owners' 'club' has a website at http://www.toyotasera.co.uk/ where you can read more about these unusual cars, and find examples for sale.
Owner's review 2:
1991 Toyota Sera review from UK and Ireland
"A rare work of art"
What things have gone wrong with the car?
So far, no major faults have been encountered. The door struts had started to sag, so they were re-gassed which seems to have cured them for now.
The super live surround sound had a problem with the amplifier when bought, but this has since been replaced.
General comments?
Just to explain, the comfort marks seem low, but that's only compared to my previous car. It's not really that bad.
The Sera isn't a fast car, but it's nippy. It's not about speed though, it's about driving a very rare and stunning looking car. A glass roof and gull-wing doors for a few thousand pounds... 1992 Toyota Sera Phase III Manual SLSS review from UK and Ireland.
"Manual transmission makes it sprightly and fun, the Phase III spoiler and grey interior is handsome"
What things have gone wrong with the car?
Very little has gone wrong with the car as a result of Toyota's build, though at 14, the suspension bushes, door struts and other parts are getting quite tired.
The importer made a total mess of the car's wiring, and consequently also the bodywork, just to fit a foglight. They also ruined the trim. When buying a Sera in the UK, it is worth checking the interior very carefully for damage.
The Japanese do generally take care of their cars. I wish the British would do the same.
General comments?
The manual transmission is fantastic, with a rifle-bolt slick gearchange (click-click - very positive). Handling is poor on this one because the dampers are now well past serviceable - replacing the suspension will cost around £700 for genuine parts.
The Phase III Sera offers a couple of small refinements - it has a plastic, instead of rubber, spoiler with a high level brake light (the primary identifying factor), three-point belts in the rear on some models, and grey interiors (Phase I and II models have blue or beige). They also have side impact beams.
For servicing it is essential to take the chassis number. My car, built in July 92, required stronger door struts to compensate for the side impact protection, and I ordered the wrong kind. Doors should lift themselves from waist height, if you want to see operation is correct. Strut balancers, the internal component of the struts, actually make a significant difference on older cars. Expect to pay £300 per door to rebuild the mechanism fully.
Owner's review 3: SOURCE: http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/toyota/sera/r75962/
1991 Toyota Sera review from UK and Ireland
"Looks and performance combined, a great budget beauty"
What things have gone wrong with the car?
Very little trouble with this car. The door struts are slightly weak, but other than absolutely no problems.
General comments?
This is without a doubt the best car I have ever owned for a number of reasons. While it may not be a power-house, it is certainly quick enough to handle most situations.
The reliability is incredible, a 14 year old car that will take all the abuse you can throw at it, and come out purring is a rarity. This coupled with the fantastic design, inside and out makes it a joy to own.
I have been a proud owner of this car for 8 years now. I'm in love with it. It's a beauty both from the outside and from the inside. A head turner. Very fast and economical.
I still can't believe it's a 1990 car, 16 years old, since its still one of the most sexy cars driving in todays roads.
Its not unusual to find people admiring it or watching it in amazement, as I open the doors upwards. I just can't find the right words to describe this car... A rare Gem maybe!!!
REFERENCES:
(1) Picture Sourced from SERA DOWN UNDER Club: http://www.alttokyo.com/gg/cars/sera/
(2)BUYER"S GUIDE: Sourced from: http://www.omicron.uk.com/sera/serabuyr.html
3)Technical Specifications: SOURCE: http://www.omicron.uk.com/sera/aboutsera.html
4) Owner's review: www.carsurvey.org/reviews/toyota/sera
5) http://www.kei-cars.com/pic/Sera3.jpg
6) FOR SOME PHOTOS. http://www.redflagdeals.com/forums/showthread.php?t=491993
THAT"S ALL FOLKS, Thanks for having the time and patience to read this blog entry.
New Wheels and Tyres
The Peugeot 206 finally got some nice looking wheels and tires (and hidden there are some hubcentric rings (spigot rings) to center the wheel to the hub).
Oh and by the way, to all Peugeot 206 and Naza Bestari owners in Miri Sarawak, if you have a problem with your Pug and don't trust the local mechanics, do drop me a message and let's see whether it is something I can sort out.
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Saturday, April 11, 2009
Laptop just got struck by lightning... Will be posting less often.
My DELL Inspiron 510m laptop got struck by lightning 15 minutes ago. Heard double "click" from my Voltage Regulator then, laptop emitted a soft "Boom". After that, cannot power on anymore. Is it a blessing in disguise? Is it time for a new laptop? I asked myself since the Laptop is already 5 years old.
But the WEIRD thing is that my Linksys AM300 ADSL modem is still working fine. Ie. NOT HARMED. Wonder HOW? and WHY?
Well, no use crying over spilled milk... Will try to repair the Laptop. In a meantime, I will be posting less often this month.
Now using dad's old 2005 laptop "CHINESE WINDOWS XP" IBM Thinkpad R51E Celeron Laptop. Very BULKY (3.5kg) and SLOW (256MB RAM only). Hey, it's a challenge for me as I dunno how to read and write "CHINESE BIG5". Yes, there's English keyboards but very annoying... Typed 1/2 way (English) automatically switched to "Chinese Big 5".
But the WEIRD thing is that my Linksys AM300 ADSL modem is still working fine. Ie. NOT HARMED. Wonder HOW? and WHY?
Well, no use crying over spilled milk... Will try to repair the Laptop. In a meantime, I will be posting less often this month.
Now using dad's old 2005 laptop "CHINESE WINDOWS XP" IBM Thinkpad R51E Celeron Laptop. Very BULKY (3.5kg) and SLOW (256MB RAM only). Hey, it's a challenge for me as I dunno how to read and write "CHINESE BIG5". Yes, there's English keyboards but very annoying... Typed 1/2 way (English) automatically switched to "Chinese Big 5".
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Gadgets: My New toy: Garmin nuvi 255W
My New toy: Garmin nuvi 255W with "JUNCTION VIEW".
Today, 11.30am, I purchased a NEW TOY. It's no other than "GARMIN NUVI 255W".
I bought it from "AUTOMOTIVE SYNERGY", SS23, TAMAN SEA, PETALING JAYA.
I paid RM1238 after rebate. It comes with extra freebies:
i) Garmin Leather casing (see photo below)
ii) Garmin Travel adapters + cable (see photo below)
iii) Pre-loaded main maps: Malsing maps (Malaysia and Singapore maps). In addition, I was given New Zealand, Philippines, Vietnam, Indonesia, Japan, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, Brunei, Hong Kong. TOTAL MAPS from 12 COUNTRIES.
Picture and video are worth 1000 words. Here's some photos (will upload Video in by this Weekend).
Above, view of the "Navigation map (MalSing) #1. Below, view of the "Navigation map
#2
Above: Right view
Below: Left view with SD Card slot
Below, Back view
Above, Welcome menu screen. Below, The "setup" menu
Above, "POINT OF INTEREST" under "Where to?" menu.
Space for video. Will upload by this Saturday.
For your reading pleasure, Here's a user review I get from a forum:
http://www.gpsreview.net/garmin-nuvi-255w/
"Begin:
First the good:
1. The new interface is by and large great. The map refresh is much much faster than any of the other Nuvis. It now shows a smooth rotation when making turns too, looks really cool. It seems to show the names of surrounding streets more frequently than what I've seen on my roommate's 250W as well.
The turn arrow display is really nice and gives you a much better idea of what to expect as you approach an interchange.
2. Incredibly fast satellite lock. I was astonished actually at how quickly it's been able to pick them up after turning it on. First time took less than 20 seconds or so and after that it's been nearly instantaneous. Was able to get a strong signal sitting in my house no problem. That definitely doesn't work with the 250W.
3. I think the unit may capable of determining time zone on its own. There is no option for setting your time zone, it just has a Time Format and Current Time (which has an auto checkbox next to it) in the time options.
5. It's a nice looking unit, very sleek and dark.
And now the bad...
1. Sound. This absolutely is not the same speech engine found on the other Nuvis. The voices on the 255W are very robotic sounding, hard to understand and made a huge number of road name mispronunciations during the trip today.
What it sounds like to me is that the audio files themselves on the 255W have a very high degree of lossy compression applied to them. The 250W or 750 vs. the 255W is like listening to the uncompressed wav audio from a CD vs. very low bitrate MP3s or something to that effect. Even at 100% volume it was almost impossible to hear on the freeway.
I have to think this is due to Garmin putting less storage space in this unit or something. Wonder if it's possible to use the voices from the other units with an SD card or something... Extremely disappointed overall on the sound front.
2. The green bar at the top of the screen when not navigating an active route now simply says "Driving (direction) on (Road Name)" - it does not show you the names of the upcoming next street the way I've seen other Nuvis do. I have no clue why they would have taken this out, that was a great feature.
. The power switch feels quite flimsy and prone to breakage, just sitting here comparing it to the 250W's, it's definitely looser and feels solid.
So, it really does seem like its one step forward and two steps back with Garmin and new products. They add great things like the new fast UI and fast satellite acquisition, but then go and put in crap sound, take away features like the upcoming cross street names etc.
by a forummer called Ryan "THE END"
Without further ado, here's the Specifications.
SPECIFICATIONS:
Physical & Performance:
Unit dimensions, WxHxD: 4.8"W x 2.9"H x .8"D (12.2 x 7.4 x 2.0 cm)
Display size, WxH: 3.81"W x 2.25"H (9.7 x 5.7 cm); 4.3" diag (10.9 cm)
Display resolution, WxH: 480 x 272 pixels
Display type: WQVGA color TFT with white backlight
Weight: 6.1 ounces (172.93 g)
Battery: rechargeable lithium-ion
Battery life: up to 4 hours
Waterproof: no
High-sensitivity receiver: yes
RoHS version available: yes
Maps & Memory:
Basemap: yes
Preloaded maps: yes
Ability to add maps: yes
Built-in memory: internal solid state
Accepts data cards: SD™ card (not included)
Waypoints/favorites/locations: 1000
Routes: 0
Features:
Voice prompts (e.g. "Turn right in 500 ft."): yes (internal speaker)
Speaks street names (e.g. "Turn right ON ELM STREET in 500 ft."): yes
Voice-activated navigation (operate device with spoken commands): no
Lane assist (guides you to the proper lane for navigation): no
3-D building view (displays buildings in 3-D): no
Auto sort multiple destinations (provides most direct route): no
Auto re-route (fast off-route and detour recalculation): yes
Choice of route setup (faster time, shorter distance, off road): yes
Route avoidance (avoid highways, tolls etc.): yes
Bluetooth® wireless technology (connect to your phone for hands-free calling): no
MSN® Direct compatible: yes
FM traffic compatible: yes
XM® Navtraffic & Radio for U.S. compatible: no
Speed limit indicator (displays speed limit for most major roads): yes
Where Am I? (find closest hospitals, police & gas stations, nearest address & intersection): yes
Garmin Locate™ (marks position when removed from windshield mount): no
ecoRoute™ (calculates a more fuel-efficient route) : yes
Qwerty or ABC keyboard (choose keyboard layout): yes
Custom POIs (ability to add additional points of interest): yes
Garmin Garage™ vehicles compatible (download car-shaped icons to your device): yes
Garmin Garage™ voices compatible (download custom voices to your device): yes
Photo navigation (navigate to geotagged photos): yes
World travel clock, currency & unit converter, calculator: yes
Picture viewer: yes
MP3 player: no
Audio book player: no
FM transmitter: no
Headphone jack/audio line-out: no
Remote control: no
Garmin Lock™ (anti-theft feature): yes
Touchscreen: yes
Dead reckoning: no
Motorcycle-friendly: no
Trucking-friendly: no
Geocaching-friendly: no
Marine-friendly: no
Additional: This USB mass storage device is compatible with Windows® 2000 or later and Mac® OS X 10.4 or later.
That's all folks, thanks for having the patience to read this...
REFERENCES:
1) Official Garmin website. - for specifications.
https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=13431#featureTab
Today, 11.30am, I purchased a NEW TOY. It's no other than "GARMIN NUVI 255W".
I bought it from "AUTOMOTIVE SYNERGY", SS23, TAMAN SEA, PETALING JAYA.
I paid RM1238 after rebate. It comes with extra freebies:
i) Garmin Leather casing (see photo below)
ii) Garmin Travel adapters + cable (see photo below)
iii) Pre-loaded main maps: Malsing maps (Malaysia and Singapore maps). In addition, I was given New Zealand, Philippines, Vietnam, Indonesia, Japan, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, Brunei, Hong Kong. TOTAL MAPS from 12 COUNTRIES.
Picture and video are worth 1000 words. Here's some photos (will upload Video in by this Weekend).
Above, view of the "Navigation map (MalSing) #1. Below, view of the "Navigation map
#2
Above: Right view
Below: Left view with SD Card slot
Below, Back view
Above, Welcome menu screen. Below, The "setup" menu
Above, "POINT OF INTEREST" under "Where to?" menu.
Space for video. Will upload by this Saturday.
For your reading pleasure, Here's a user review I get from a forum:
http://www.gpsreview.net/garmin-nuvi-255w/
"Begin:
First the good:
1. The new interface is by and large great. The map refresh is much much faster than any of the other Nuvis. It now shows a smooth rotation when making turns too, looks really cool. It seems to show the names of surrounding streets more frequently than what I've seen on my roommate's 250W as well.
The turn arrow display is really nice and gives you a much better idea of what to expect as you approach an interchange.
2. Incredibly fast satellite lock. I was astonished actually at how quickly it's been able to pick them up after turning it on. First time took less than 20 seconds or so and after that it's been nearly instantaneous. Was able to get a strong signal sitting in my house no problem. That definitely doesn't work with the 250W.
3. I think the unit may capable of determining time zone on its own. There is no option for setting your time zone, it just has a Time Format and Current Time (which has an auto checkbox next to it) in the time options.
5. It's a nice looking unit, very sleek and dark.
And now the bad...
1. Sound. This absolutely is not the same speech engine found on the other Nuvis. The voices on the 255W are very robotic sounding, hard to understand and made a huge number of road name mispronunciations during the trip today.
What it sounds like to me is that the audio files themselves on the 255W have a very high degree of lossy compression applied to them. The 250W or 750 vs. the 255W is like listening to the uncompressed wav audio from a CD vs. very low bitrate MP3s or something to that effect. Even at 100% volume it was almost impossible to hear on the freeway.
I have to think this is due to Garmin putting less storage space in this unit or something. Wonder if it's possible to use the voices from the other units with an SD card or something... Extremely disappointed overall on the sound front.
2. The green bar at the top of the screen when not navigating an active route now simply says "Driving (direction) on (Road Name)" - it does not show you the names of the upcoming next street the way I've seen other Nuvis do. I have no clue why they would have taken this out, that was a great feature.
. The power switch feels quite flimsy and prone to breakage, just sitting here comparing it to the 250W's, it's definitely looser and feels solid.
So, it really does seem like its one step forward and two steps back with Garmin and new products. They add great things like the new fast UI and fast satellite acquisition, but then go and put in crap sound, take away features like the upcoming cross street names etc.
by a forummer called Ryan "THE END"
Without further ado, here's the Specifications.
SPECIFICATIONS:
Physical & Performance:
Unit dimensions, WxHxD: 4.8"W x 2.9"H x .8"D (12.2 x 7.4 x 2.0 cm)
Display size, WxH: 3.81"W x 2.25"H (9.7 x 5.7 cm); 4.3" diag (10.9 cm)
Display resolution, WxH: 480 x 272 pixels
Display type: WQVGA color TFT with white backlight
Weight: 6.1 ounces (172.93 g)
Battery: rechargeable lithium-ion
Battery life: up to 4 hours
Waterproof: no
High-sensitivity receiver: yes
RoHS version available: yes
Maps & Memory:
Basemap: yes
Preloaded maps: yes
Ability to add maps: yes
Built-in memory: internal solid state
Accepts data cards: SD™ card (not included)
Waypoints/favorites/locations: 1000
Routes: 0
Features:
Voice prompts (e.g. "Turn right in 500 ft."): yes (internal speaker)
Speaks street names (e.g. "Turn right ON ELM STREET in 500 ft."): yes
Voice-activated navigation (operate device with spoken commands): no
Lane assist (guides you to the proper lane for navigation): no
3-D building view (displays buildings in 3-D): no
Auto sort multiple destinations (provides most direct route): no
Auto re-route (fast off-route and detour recalculation): yes
Choice of route setup (faster time, shorter distance, off road): yes
Route avoidance (avoid highways, tolls etc.): yes
Bluetooth® wireless technology (connect to your phone for hands-free calling): no
MSN® Direct compatible: yes
FM traffic compatible: yes
XM® Navtraffic & Radio for U.S. compatible: no
Speed limit indicator (displays speed limit for most major roads): yes
Where Am I? (find closest hospitals, police & gas stations, nearest address & intersection): yes
Garmin Locate™ (marks position when removed from windshield mount): no
ecoRoute™ (calculates a more fuel-efficient route) : yes
Qwerty or ABC keyboard (choose keyboard layout): yes
Custom POIs (ability to add additional points of interest): yes
Garmin Garage™ vehicles compatible (download car-shaped icons to your device): yes
Garmin Garage™ voices compatible (download custom voices to your device): yes
Photo navigation (navigate to geotagged photos): yes
World travel clock, currency & unit converter, calculator: yes
Picture viewer: yes
MP3 player: no
Audio book player: no
FM transmitter: no
Headphone jack/audio line-out: no
Remote control: no
Garmin Lock™ (anti-theft feature): yes
Touchscreen: yes
Dead reckoning: no
Motorcycle-friendly: no
Trucking-friendly: no
Geocaching-friendly: no
Marine-friendly: no
Additional: This USB mass storage device is compatible with Windows® 2000 or later and Mac® OS X 10.4 or later.
That's all folks, thanks for having the patience to read this...
REFERENCES:
1) Official Garmin website. - for specifications.
https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=13431#featureTab
Sunday, April 5, 2009
10 Things to Never Say to a Car Dealer
FORBES.COM/MSNBC.COM presents...
Things to Never Say to a Car Dealer
by Bengt Halvorson
updated 5:21 p.m. ET Sept. 18, 2005
The dealership experience can be extremely stressful, but it doesn't have to be. You could know everything there is to know about the cars you're considering, but that's only a fraction of the buying process. If you want that seductive new sedan at a good price, you're probably going to need to know what to say — and more importantly, what not to say.
Some people loathe the whole car-buying experience simply because they anticipate getting conned. A few hundred dollars isn't a big deal on the price of a luxury car, but it's the idea of smart shopping and that sense of getting a good deal that's especially important. For luxury car buyers — notoriously labeled the shrewd shoppers — a good deal is icing on the cake.
"The educated consumer is the one who will drive away with the best deal and the best experience," says Rob Gentile, director of car-buying products at Consumer Reports.
To help you take the driver's seat in the buying experience, first learn to play the game, and you might even end up doing some smooth talking of your own.
Ready, Set, Go!
1. "I'm ready to buy now."
This is an admission of weakness and an invitation for the dealer to throw out a price that's slightly below the manufacturer's suggested retail price (MSRP) to see if you'll take the bait. It shows that you're too eager and willing to consider an offer, and it also gives salespeople the advantage by allowing them to talk you up as opposed to you talking them down. But by adding some very precise parameters, you'll sound confident and strong from the start.
"Don't let them know that you're ready to buy without being very particular. If you're ready, say that you'll buy, but only under these particular conditions," says Gentile.
There are two schools on negotiating. Going into the process, Gentile reminds consumers to be wary of the dealer cost. Consumer Reports has something called wholesale price, which is the normal dealer invoice price minus all relevant rebates and incentives. Similarly, most longstanding price-information services advise buyers to research the dealer invoice, along with any relevant incentives, then make a lowball offer that's maybe just a few hundred dollars above invoice. The dealer will follow your figure with a counteroffer that then allows you to go back and forth until there is a compromise.
Conversely, a second school believes that making the first offer puts the buyer in a weak position. "When you make an offer on a car, you're digging yourself into a hole," says James "Spike" Bragg, a consumer advocate and founder of Fighting Chance, an information service for new-car buyers. "That offer will be as good as it gets. There's so much today in 'under the radar' sales incentives to dealers, you don't want to limit yourself."
According to Bragg, many of the dealer incentives today are awarded on a dealer-by-dealer basis, often handed out for meeting sales targets. Because of this, you can't pin down these incentives on a particular vehicle, and you never know which dealership might be able to provide the better price at a given time.
Bragg's method involves faxing quote requests from several different dealerships and asking them for their best bottom-line price on a particular model. His clients sometimes manage to negotiate prices well below invoice, even considering all published incentives. In this day of increased under-the-radar incentives, this method doesn't limit you to a bottom line and certainly has its merits if you're willing to put in the effort.
Monthly Payment
2. "I can afford this much per month."
"Don't tell the dealer what you're willing to pay per month. This is the biggest mistake a shopper can make. Often the dealer will focus on a monthly payment scheme, insisting you are receiving a great deal, but at the end of the day you won't really know what you paid, advises Gentile.
If the dealer can get a number out of you, a common trick is to ask if you can squeeze out a slightly higher monthly payment, then raise the bottom-line price accordingly by hundreds or even thousands. Avoid this by insisting that you focus only on the purchase price. Walk away if the salesperson only wants to talk in monthly payments. Trade-in
Trade-in
3. "Yes, I have a trade-in."
Don't tell salespeople you have a trade-in until a final transaction price is set. If you do and the deal hasn't been made yet, they may try to distract you with the "great" deal they're giving you on your trade-in as they skimp on the real deal. And if you catch that, they may try writing your trade-up for less.
"You'll see games being played — they'll play one off on the other," Gentile says. Once you've decided on a sale price, then you can see what they'll give you for your old car.
Cash-Only Please
4. "I'm only buying the car with cash."
Car dealers make a significant chunk of added profit when they sell you financing. If you don't at least leave the dealer with the possibility that he or she might sell you financing, you simply won't be getting the best deal. Bragg recommends saying something like "I haven't really thought that through yet. Maybe we'll see what you have after we agree on a price."
But be truly noncommittal with financing, even though it's a good idea to line up tentative financing with your lender before you go car shopping.
Still Debating
5. "I'm not sure…which model do you think I need?"
If you're this undecided, you may end up driving away in a vehicle you neither wanted nor needed. Do the research in advance, and make your first shopping trip a short one. Use this opportunity to gather information and take your spec vehicle for a short test drive. If your uncertainty is apparent, you may end up buying the model with the most add-on equipment, the highest sticker price and, of course, the most profit for the dealer. Before you go shopping, narrow your choices down to three or four vehicles that fit your needs.
My Dream Car
6. "Oh, I've wanted one of these all my life."
As soon as you've lost yourself in the dreamy vision of that gleaming convertible, the salesperson has you hooked, and your chances of getting a great deal are over. "Don't get caught heavy breathing," says Bragg. "Certainly don't admit to your spouse — with the salesman listening in the backseat — that you're in love with the car." Here's where you need to have a communication plan. Try to sound objective and rational. Point out some pros and cons and be observant and calm. Just don't say that you have to have this car.
What Everyone Wants
7. "I'll take whatever the popular options are."
Don't ever ask for the "popular options" especially on a luxury model that already comes loaded. It's an open invitation for overpriced dealer add-ons such as interior protectant, window etching or undercoating. They're all things you can come back for later. Instead, go through the equipment list at home after your first visit to the dealership and then decide exactly what you need.
Lowest You Can Go
8. "What's the lowest price you can give me?"
Most likely, this question won't be taken seriously, and you will be met with a predictable performance. The salesperson will wince, maybe talk to the manager, fiddle with numbers and eventually come back with a price that probably isn't a very good deal for you. But there may be so much apparent effort in this performance that you'll be pressured into settling for that final number. Don't. To avoid this, make an informed and reasonable low offer, then wait for a counteroffer. Don't be afraid of silence. Conversely, don't be surprised if there's even a little drama.
Doing The Math
9. "Sure, I'll look at the numbers with you."
Perhaps quite early in your visit, the salesperson will most likely make an offer to "just go look at the numbers." Dealers do this when they sense you're undecided, but they want to be in the position of control. Getting you in the office makes it harder for you to back out. Wait until you can call the shots of what you want at what price.
The Haggle Factor
10. "I think you can do a lot better than that."
Never scold or accuse the salespeople. Be polite. Compliment them, and show respect. You'll never get the best price if you talk down to them. At least for the moment, you want them to be your friends. Let the scene play out, but leave when the deal's not good enough by quietly suggesting that the competition across town might be more willing to work with you.
ARTICLE SOURCE: www.msnbc.msn.com/id/9358955
Things to Never Say to a Car Dealer
by Bengt Halvorson
updated 5:21 p.m. ET Sept. 18, 2005
The dealership experience can be extremely stressful, but it doesn't have to be. You could know everything there is to know about the cars you're considering, but that's only a fraction of the buying process. If you want that seductive new sedan at a good price, you're probably going to need to know what to say — and more importantly, what not to say.
Some people loathe the whole car-buying experience simply because they anticipate getting conned. A few hundred dollars isn't a big deal on the price of a luxury car, but it's the idea of smart shopping and that sense of getting a good deal that's especially important. For luxury car buyers — notoriously labeled the shrewd shoppers — a good deal is icing on the cake.
"The educated consumer is the one who will drive away with the best deal and the best experience," says Rob Gentile, director of car-buying products at Consumer Reports.
To help you take the driver's seat in the buying experience, first learn to play the game, and you might even end up doing some smooth talking of your own.
Ready, Set, Go!
1. "I'm ready to buy now."
This is an admission of weakness and an invitation for the dealer to throw out a price that's slightly below the manufacturer's suggested retail price (MSRP) to see if you'll take the bait. It shows that you're too eager and willing to consider an offer, and it also gives salespeople the advantage by allowing them to talk you up as opposed to you talking them down. But by adding some very precise parameters, you'll sound confident and strong from the start.
"Don't let them know that you're ready to buy without being very particular. If you're ready, say that you'll buy, but only under these particular conditions," says Gentile.
There are two schools on negotiating. Going into the process, Gentile reminds consumers to be wary of the dealer cost. Consumer Reports has something called wholesale price, which is the normal dealer invoice price minus all relevant rebates and incentives. Similarly, most longstanding price-information services advise buyers to research the dealer invoice, along with any relevant incentives, then make a lowball offer that's maybe just a few hundred dollars above invoice. The dealer will follow your figure with a counteroffer that then allows you to go back and forth until there is a compromise.
Conversely, a second school believes that making the first offer puts the buyer in a weak position. "When you make an offer on a car, you're digging yourself into a hole," says James "Spike" Bragg, a consumer advocate and founder of Fighting Chance, an information service for new-car buyers. "That offer will be as good as it gets. There's so much today in 'under the radar' sales incentives to dealers, you don't want to limit yourself."
According to Bragg, many of the dealer incentives today are awarded on a dealer-by-dealer basis, often handed out for meeting sales targets. Because of this, you can't pin down these incentives on a particular vehicle, and you never know which dealership might be able to provide the better price at a given time.
Bragg's method involves faxing quote requests from several different dealerships and asking them for their best bottom-line price on a particular model. His clients sometimes manage to negotiate prices well below invoice, even considering all published incentives. In this day of increased under-the-radar incentives, this method doesn't limit you to a bottom line and certainly has its merits if you're willing to put in the effort.
Monthly Payment
2. "I can afford this much per month."
"Don't tell the dealer what you're willing to pay per month. This is the biggest mistake a shopper can make. Often the dealer will focus on a monthly payment scheme, insisting you are receiving a great deal, but at the end of the day you won't really know what you paid, advises Gentile.
If the dealer can get a number out of you, a common trick is to ask if you can squeeze out a slightly higher monthly payment, then raise the bottom-line price accordingly by hundreds or even thousands. Avoid this by insisting that you focus only on the purchase price. Walk away if the salesperson only wants to talk in monthly payments. Trade-in
Trade-in
3. "Yes, I have a trade-in."
Don't tell salespeople you have a trade-in until a final transaction price is set. If you do and the deal hasn't been made yet, they may try to distract you with the "great" deal they're giving you on your trade-in as they skimp on the real deal. And if you catch that, they may try writing your trade-up for less.
"You'll see games being played — they'll play one off on the other," Gentile says. Once you've decided on a sale price, then you can see what they'll give you for your old car.
Cash-Only Please
4. "I'm only buying the car with cash."
Car dealers make a significant chunk of added profit when they sell you financing. If you don't at least leave the dealer with the possibility that he or she might sell you financing, you simply won't be getting the best deal. Bragg recommends saying something like "I haven't really thought that through yet. Maybe we'll see what you have after we agree on a price."
But be truly noncommittal with financing, even though it's a good idea to line up tentative financing with your lender before you go car shopping.
Still Debating
5. "I'm not sure…which model do you think I need?"
If you're this undecided, you may end up driving away in a vehicle you neither wanted nor needed. Do the research in advance, and make your first shopping trip a short one. Use this opportunity to gather information and take your spec vehicle for a short test drive. If your uncertainty is apparent, you may end up buying the model with the most add-on equipment, the highest sticker price and, of course, the most profit for the dealer. Before you go shopping, narrow your choices down to three or four vehicles that fit your needs.
My Dream Car
6. "Oh, I've wanted one of these all my life."
As soon as you've lost yourself in the dreamy vision of that gleaming convertible, the salesperson has you hooked, and your chances of getting a great deal are over. "Don't get caught heavy breathing," says Bragg. "Certainly don't admit to your spouse — with the salesman listening in the backseat — that you're in love with the car." Here's where you need to have a communication plan. Try to sound objective and rational. Point out some pros and cons and be observant and calm. Just don't say that you have to have this car.
What Everyone Wants
7. "I'll take whatever the popular options are."
Don't ever ask for the "popular options" especially on a luxury model that already comes loaded. It's an open invitation for overpriced dealer add-ons such as interior protectant, window etching or undercoating. They're all things you can come back for later. Instead, go through the equipment list at home after your first visit to the dealership and then decide exactly what you need.
Lowest You Can Go
8. "What's the lowest price you can give me?"
Most likely, this question won't be taken seriously, and you will be met with a predictable performance. The salesperson will wince, maybe talk to the manager, fiddle with numbers and eventually come back with a price that probably isn't a very good deal for you. But there may be so much apparent effort in this performance that you'll be pressured into settling for that final number. Don't. To avoid this, make an informed and reasonable low offer, then wait for a counteroffer. Don't be afraid of silence. Conversely, don't be surprised if there's even a little drama.
Doing The Math
9. "Sure, I'll look at the numbers with you."
Perhaps quite early in your visit, the salesperson will most likely make an offer to "just go look at the numbers." Dealers do this when they sense you're undecided, but they want to be in the position of control. Getting you in the office makes it harder for you to back out. Wait until you can call the shots of what you want at what price.
The Haggle Factor
10. "I think you can do a lot better than that."
Never scold or accuse the salespeople. Be polite. Compliment them, and show respect. You'll never get the best price if you talk down to them. At least for the moment, you want them to be your friends. Let the scene play out, but leave when the deal's not good enough by quietly suggesting that the competition across town might be more willing to work with you.
ARTICLE SOURCE: www.msnbc.msn.com/id/9358955
Friday, April 3, 2009
Disc Brake Caliper Piston Service
I've had a go again at servicing the disc brake calipers on my Peugeot 206. For the past few months, the brakes have been squealing and I suspected the pistons could be jammed. After opening it up, sure enough, the pistons were filled with muck from years of use, that caused it not to slide smoothly in the barrel, hence the squealing noise.
The dirty caliper piston.
Close-up of the piston and rubber boot, covered with brake dust.
Piston removed, showing the inside of the barrel and rubber boot.
Close-up of the cleaned barrel and rubber boot.
Dirty piston.
Cleaned piston.Want to fix the Peugeot 206 yourself?
Get this book.
I have one!
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